Maybe it was encountering baby turtles no bigger than poker chips determined to reach the sea, the daily whale sightings off the veranda, the constant beat of waves against the shore, and inky star-filled skies, or maybe it was just being far from most of humanity and the woes of 2020 - whatever it was, the two weeks before Christmas we spent at the Modern Elder Academy near Todos Santos in Southern Baja, Mexico were magical and cathartic.

Last June we were scheduled to be guest faculty members at MEA to lead a session called Wisdom Meets Wanderlust. COVID put an end to that and the academy closed for several months. In October they made a pivot, or “Swerve” as they like to call it, from week-long workshops to opening their 5-star campus for long-term stays called Soul Sabbaticals. There must have been a need because reservations are hard to get!

This new concept allows guests to “Self Curate” their stay in a setting perfect for self-reflection with a dash of “woo-woo”, or work as needed while drinking in the scenery - and scratch margaritas. You can start your day with guided meditation or watch the sunrise on a mountaintop with the resident Shaman. Maybe you’d like to have a Reiki session with your massage, take a private yoga lesson, or try your hand at rock balancing on the beach.

The light-filled art studio will beckon you to pick up a paintbrush - or pick a quiet corner to read near the pool until cocktail hour. Best of all (no woo-woo required), head to the nearly deserted beach, and restore yourself surrounded by natural beauty. 

Besides the daily mediation and yoga classes, there were conversations around topics like “Awe", "The Soul of Money", “Mindset” and "Making Transitions" led by staff facilitators. Along with plenty of free time to respond to the daily journal prompt.

If we felt the need for a change of scenery, we could borrow a bike and hit the dusty road to Baja Beans for excellent coffee, find a flea market, or go to the famous Cerrados surf beach nearby. There were trips to Todos Santos, a very special night of theatre under the stars with a performance of The Prophet by two Broadway transplants, birdwatching excursions, and a couple of lunches at beach side bars…but really, there had to be a compelling reason to leave the comfortable cocoon of the campus.

MEA was founded by Chip Conley, founder of Joie de Vivre Hospitality who, at age 26 bought the first of many hotels, and became a pioneer in the boutique hotels movement. More recently, he was the Global Director of Hospitality and Strategy for Airbnb. Chip, in his early fifties was the oldest team member by far at Airbnb and he needed to find ways to fit in with a younger, tech-savvy workforce to be successful.

It turned out what he really brought to the table, besides his extensive hospitality background, was his wisdom. Airbnb’s three founders were in their 30’s when Chip came on board, and while mentoring these young entrepreneurs in how to build what is now a hospitality juggernaut, he was inspired to write a book (one of many he has written) called Wisdom at Work: The Making of a Modern Elder .

At around the same time, the idea to create a place where people could explore their Middlessence (you’ll have to read the book) was born. Chip and his co-founders created a “midlife wisdom school” where people who find themselves curious about “what’s next” can join a like-minded cohort. Previously that would have meant a seven-day, intensive Modern Elder Academy workshop for up to 24 guests, but for now, and into the foreseeable future the Soul Sabbatical format will be the norm.

There were between twelve and sixteen guests during our stay. Some had already been there for three weeks and were staying until after the first of the year. Others, like us, booked two-week stays. And some guests, almost as soon as they arrived and saw their surroundings, extended their hiatus for at least another week. I know we would have considered it if we didn’t have holiday obligations and hard to get annual physical appointments back in Seattle.

Chips hotel background shows up in every detail. The well-appointed guest rooms are spread between two main campuses. One near the beach, the other across the road near the pool. There are nineteen unique rooms and each one is filled with natural light, and eclectic Mexican art, along with nice touches like robes, books, and fluffy towels.

The grounds overflow with flowering plants, succulents, and fruit trees. And an organic garden supplies much of the produce that goes into the bountiful and delicious meals included in your stay.

Cocktails, local brews, and good wine, also included, boost convivial conversation at the outdoor dining tables and around the fire pits. Thursday is Pizza Night under twinkling lights in the garden where a fiery clay oven turns out scorched-in-all-the-right-places pies as fast as they are consumed.

The ages of our fellow guests ranged from a 36-year old woman striving to make the leap to becoming a full-time artist, to Mr. Campbell, our 75-year-old patriarch. The average age seemed to be around 50. Professions ran the gamut. We had a doctor, a professor, a Hollywood studio executive (who just left his career at its pinnacle), financial wizards, fine artists, a California wild-fire expert, a renewable energy guru, an upscale retreat planner, a seafaring adventuress, a meditation instructor…and a couple of well-known retired travelers. This merry mix of people seeking a retreat from mid-life crises, politics, and COVID made for interesting and often deep conversations. We came away with some great new friends.

Michael and I took advantage of a life experience we would have skipped if we hadn’t been encouraged by Chip and other guests. A sunrise Meditation and Blessing with a Shaman. This mystical, pre-dawn adventure took place 500 feet above sea level on a cactus-studded plateau with a view of mountains in the distance and the churning sea far below us. 

Saul (pronounced Sow-ool) picked us up at 5:15 in the morning. It was a bit chilly and very dark. We'd heard about the harrowing drive to the site from others who had done this - and they were right in describing the thirty-minute journey as a slow climb over rocks and deep divots on a narrow, dirt road. It was a good thing it was dark going up because three hours later when we headed back down, we could see just how perilous the conditions were! But Saul drives it twice a day for sunrise and sunset blessings and trusts the universe to deliver him, and his guests, safely to his sacred place in his 4-wheel drive Jeep he has named Miracles.

Saul laid out heavy blankets on a flat rock and then wrapped us in fleece-lined leather ponchos to keep warm. He lit incense and settled us in to face towards the Sierra de San Borja mountains where the sun would rise. He led a simple meditation as we watched the sky turn from deep purple and pink to a swirl of pastels as the sun crested the peaks.

Afterward, we walked to a cliff edge where a 150-year-old cactus Saul has named Alfredo clings for dear life to the rocky ledge. He was our sentinel as we spent some one-on-one time with the Shaman to undergo a personal energy reading and blessing.

There were several steps involved in the process, each one more interesting than the one before, but the best was a final cleansing of our psyche with a fat bunch of fresh basil that had been anointed with special powders, dried herbs, and a dash of vodka for good measure. This now “sacred bouquet” was brushed vigorously over our entire body while Saul called upon spirits in another dimension to bless us and clear us of any negativity. 

 As for the energy readings, common themes were that we radiate love, harmony, and excellent health. Our purpose in life is to set an example of what a strong marriage looks like. Our futures are bright, although we in for a major transition in 2021. And I was granted a secret wish that I can’t share yet! With that, we headed back to the campus for another day in paradise.

I know this blog makes The Modern Elder Academy either sound too good to be true, or I’m being paid big bucks to sing their praises - but I assure you neither is the case. In fact, we were a bit skeptical about this trip at first - but it turns out it really is one of the most amazing places we’ve ever stayed.  And best of all it wasn’t too far off our daily budget considering room and board were included.

We were sad to leave our new friends to return to Seattle, where it has poured rain almost every day. But we have enjoyed seeing family (after negative COVID tests) and are currently house-sitting through January 7th. From here we will return to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico to the beautiful Airbnb we lived in during the early months of the COVID outbreak. Once we arrive we’ll stay close to home until we can return to Seattle for vaccines. Hopefully, after the world is set back on its axis we can pick up our travels where we left off!

 Thanks for following along, and we wish you a happy and healthy New Year,

 Debbie and Michael Campbell

The Senior Nomads.