The Elegance of Oman
During our recent travels, we chose a week in Muscat, Oman, as a buffer between the "Wonders of Egypt" and the "Unknowns of Turkmenistan." The ancient city of Muscat was the perfect destination that blended cultural exploration and stunning architecture with a healthy dose of relaxation.
Our usual preference for Airbnb accommodations took a slight detour on day one. We chose the listing because of the host's outstanding reviews - the place itself was modest. Still, we looked forward to our interactions with Mohammed and his take on Omani culture. He met us at the airport, which was very kind of him, but he seemed distracted. Once we got to our Airbnb, it was smaller and less equipped for a week-long stay than anticipated, and our conversations with Mohammed got a bit too “Cosmic” for us. He also couldn’t confidently recommend a grocery store or nearby restaurants. Really?
The outside seating area of the Airbnb.
On our first night we did find a small grocery store, where Michael made friends (as always) with the young proprietor who helped us get to grips with the local currency. We succumbed to Kentucky Fried Chicken for dinner.
The whole experience seemed off - but we admitted to ourselves that we'd booked it while doing other complicated travel planning and could have made a better choice. We gently told our host we wanted to leave the following day. He took it in stride, and we parted with a hug, a handshake, and "blessings from the Universe." We paid for our one-week stay. We decided not to leave a review because other guests seemed very satisfied. It just wasn’t right for us.
The lobby and pool at the Avani Hotel.
We packed our things. got a taxi and headed for the Avani Hotel. This recently opened mid-century-vibe oasis offered surprisingly affordable accommodations and a lovely outdoor pool. Every inch of this boutique beauty was thoughtfully decorated, and our suite had a fully equipped, compact kitchen. Steps away was a very modern shopping mall with a Carrefour (French supermarket) where we found ingredients for simple meals. We were so glad we didn't "tough it out" at the Airbnb. Sometimes, you have to cut your losses and move on.
Muscat, a city where tradition meets modernity, was fun to explore. From the majestic Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque to the vibrant fish and vegetable markets, we immersed ourselves in the unique charm of this Arabian mecca.
Our exploration began with an all-day Airbnb Experience called The Treasures of Muscat. Our host, Mohammed, met us at the magnificent Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. It was stunning and a very spiritual place. We love the symmetry of Muslim architecture, and this mosque was a vast labyrinth of white marble courtyards connected by tile-spangled walkways. And, of course, the centerpiece was the ornate Musalla, or "place for prayers."
Images from the magical Sultan Quboos Mosque. One of the most beautiful we’ve ever seen.
Toward the end of the tour, Mohammed steered us to an area with small alcoves. We were ushered into one, settled on some comfortable cushions, and were offered tea, dates, and delicious cookies. A few other visitors joined us, and we chatted for a few minutes but still wondered what was happening. Moments later, an elegant, octogenarian Imam swept into the room and sat before us. He was there to share the story of Islam - whether we were ready to hear it or not. It was a gentle sell and, in fact, very interesting. He gave us booklets on the History of Islam, how Islam and Christianity are intertwined, God as perceived through all major religions, and a simple prayer book. We actually appreciated this thought-provoking interaction.
The Royal Opera House was so stunning. I think Muscat has some of the most beautiful buildings in all of the world.
From there, we toured The Royal Opera House, an opulent venue that blends Omani architecture with modern aesthetics. We knew it was an auditory marvel and wished we could have attended a concert there, but no events were scheduled during our stay. We sat in the orchestra seats while a guide shared details on the construction, the state-of-the-art acoustics, and a fantastic number of stage configurations. We moved on to Muttrah and the extensive fish and vegetable market. The market is steeped in history and provides an authentic shopping experience, offering every sea creature you could put in a pot or on a plate, rows of fresh herbs and spices, and scores of fruits and vegetables - many of which I’d never seen before!
The Fish and Fruit market was interesting - note every man has a Kumma or head covering (more on that later) Oh. And this is definintely O-MAN. Woman were a rare sight.
We had lunch in the ancient Muttrah Souk in the old town. One thing we noticed as we navigated the narrow passageways in this market was the friendlier, less “in your face” attitude of the vendors. Sure, they wanted you to buy souvenirs and food and clothing, but there wasn’t the air of desperation we experienced in Egypt. In fact, you could stop and admire their wares, have a nice exchange, and move on What a relief.
We dined on vegetable Samosas, fresh fruit juice, and a bag of delicate cardamon cookies. The food in Oman should have captured our attention, and I am sure we missed some delicacies, but we were more focused on R&R.
To help with that, we needed to find a bottle of wine in this Muslim enclave. We found the single retail outlet in all of Muscat that sold alcohol. Our guide learned from the guard that we needed to apply and pay dearly for a tourist permit at the police station to purchase the devil's drink.
Omanis are not allowed such indulgences - other than Duty-Free. Workers outside the country are the only denizens allowed to buy spirits. And they also need a special permit that monitors their limited allotment.
Zale - a seaside oasis in a “dry” country.
That led us to Zale, a popular restaurant in the luxurious Kempinski waterfront resort. Not only did they offer a delightful Happy Hour experience, but it was also one of the rare places where we could savor a glass of wine—an expensive indulgence, but worth it. We lingered over backgammon and a blazing sunset over the Arabian Sea and counted our "blessings from the Universe."
Muscat's landscape is scattered with impressive forts, each telling a tale of the city's strategic importance throughout history. The juxtaposition of ancient fortresses against the backdrop of modern architecture was intriguing.
We visited two of these bastions while we were in Oman. The Portuguese built the fort in the old city in the 1580s to protect the entrance to the harbor. It is well-preserved. The beautiful grounds surround official government offices and the Sultan’s city residence. Now, the two mega-yachts owned by the Sultan are the most important things that need safeguarding in the harbor.
Venturing beyond Muscat, we embarked on another all-day Airbnb experience that took us to the Nizwa Cattle Market and ancient Nizwa Fort. We left Muscat at 6:00 in the morning for a three-hour drive. We expected to see animals being bartered for at the same place, in the same way, it’s been done for hundreds of years, but it was a slow day at the marketplace, and most of the haggling was over. Still, there was a nice vibe (and a strong odor),and groups of men in traditional garb sipped coffee while young boys corralled various cattle in pens for their new owners.
The marketplace around the fort was lively - and delicious food was everywhere, and pennies a serving.
The famous Nizwa fort was an interesting side trip. It was massive and, again, very well preserved. We also visited a large date market nearby - I have come to really enjoy dates!
Omani tourists at the Nizwa Fort - and two rooms I found to be serene and photogenic.
On the way back, we stopped in the ancient village of Al Hamra, where we witnessed what life was like over two hundred years ago. Not so great, as it turns out. We were happy to return to the present to enjoy our room full of mod-cons, a cool dip in the pool, and Netflix!
Our week in Muscat was a blend of exploration and relaxation in a country slightly off the beaten path but one currently in the headlines due to the situation in the Middle East. One of the most satisfying aspects of our travels has been visiting places in the news. When we hear or read about current events, we can often say, "We've been there!" And that includes the sliver of no-mans-land called Transnistria - sandwiched between Ukraine and Moldova that was in the news just this morning!
As a souvenir, I bought a Kumma - the traditional cap worn by almost every Omani male, young and old. The basic cap is white, but many embroidery options represent special occasions, age, tribal association, and personal style.
Young men "rock" this cap with various peaks and folds in the fabric to make a personal statement. The shopkeeper was more than happy to sell me one, but our guide strongly suggested, as a woman, I not wear it while in Oman. Fair enough, in a country where Omani women are seen in public is rarity.
But now, I have a collection of natty little hats from Oman, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan to wear whenever I please.
Thanks for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell