It Pays to be Norwegian

June 27th - July 4th. We learned why Norwegians were such friendly, relaxed, happy people. In a country where working is almost a "lifestyle" choice,  everything they could worry about is taken care of.  The average citizen enjoys free health care, childcare and education. Women recieve forty-six weeks of paid maternity leave, and even being old has its benefits. All this is covered by Norway's benevolent government and funded by taxes of course, but mostly from oil revenue. So really, the hardest decision a Norwegian might make is how to spend their six weeks of paid vacation. 

Here is a excerpt from a recent Rueters article - the source is Norges Bank:

The country started a "wealth fund" in 1990 from the proceeds of their oil royalties. The fund now owns 1% of all the stocks, bonds and real estate around the globe. If you take the total value of the fund in 2014, which is 5.11 trillion Krone and divide it by the 5 million citizens of Norway, then every man, woman and child is a theoretical millionaire.

Norwegians on the way to the bank.

Oslo could be one of our favorite cities of the trip. It was clean, it was beautiful, it was prosperous. It was expensive! We had read that prices in Oslo would be higher than Paris or even London and it was true. Especially the cost of food and drink - the two things we purchase most. It didn't help that the Norwegian Krone is one of those currencies with lots of zeros so there were large price tags that we needed to convert into 'dollar-think' so when I spent an eye-popping 200 kr for a few groceries - it was really only about $33. Still not cheap for coffee, milk, cereal, OJ and two bananas.

They make it difficult to buy alcohol here so that saves a bit of money. When you do buy it you just have to close your eyes and not think about paying $20. for a $6. bottle of wine or 5 bucks for a can of beer. The rules are: No sales on Sunday, no wine in grocery stores - you need a special store for that and hard liquor. Not many of those to be found and they close at 5:00 on weekdays and 3:00 on Saturday. Beer can be purchased at the grocery store between 10:00 and 8:00 on weekdays, and until 6:00 on Saturday. The moral here: drink in moderation and plan ahead!

A typical Nomad dinner with a dash of NBC Nighly news.

Our apartment was small but comfortable and the deck was welcome since it was warm for Oslo. The best part was the location - very close to the city center, but in a quiet complex of mixed income housing. There were several parks and fountains and two grocery stores with the confines of the complex. And the center of the city was just a fifteen minute walk away.

Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2507808

We were prudent and found several inexpensive concerts and of course took the free walking tour. Our favorite find was an afternoon concert series at the stunning opera house - so good we went twice. Not only is the building stunning - the music was really great. Opera arias on one day and a very entertaining male A Cappella quartet the next day who had some some with Barbershop.

The stunning Opera House dips into the North Sea.

Taking advantage of the short Scandinavian Summer

We also spent a day at Vigelandsparken. This 112 acre park was designed by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland and contains 225 of his unbelievable statues throughout the grounds. The work covers a span from 1919 to 1944. The pictures won't do these incredible figures credit. The multiple bronze figures were outstanding, but the massive granite people were so expressive and emotive of moments in real life that it was easy to imagine them slowly waking up after midnight, having a good stretch and then lumbering around chatting with each other until it was time to take up their positions again at dawn.

A busy Norwegian Stay at Home Dad

Honestly, we didn't do it!

123 figures are striving for the top in this centerpeice.

"I just realize I am naked. Wait - all the statues are naked!"

Only Vigeland could capture what it's really like to be a mother.

As I said, the city was pristine. The streets were spotless, no scribbled graffiti tags (more on that later), and not a homeless person in sight. Every thing was so well groomed it felt like the city had a good nights sleep and a daily mani-pedi. The public spaces were well thought out, with human comfort always top of mind. There were parks of all sizes filled with flower beds, shade trees, benches, public art and imaginative play areas with climbing toys and splash ponds for kids. The trams and underground trains were on-time, and spotless. The crime rate is very low here and we didn't see a single homeless person. Even the few gypsies we saw seemed content.

If you do want to earn money in Oslo - you have options.

On day two of our week in Oslo we joined in celebrating the culmination of EuroPride Week by watching the grand parade! We found a great vantage point and enjoyed watching thousands of happy, colorful, flag-waving, people dance and prance along the parade route ending at a  large outdoor festival on the waterfront.

A glimpse  at the merry marchers in the EuroPride Parade.

Happiness, rainbows, butterflies and glitter. Lots of glitter.

Our walking tour turned out to have a street art focus so it was less about the history and highlights of the city and more about the many murals and smaller portraits and icons found mostly in the hip (and hippie) Grunerlokka district. While the art is technically illegal, the city turns a blind eye to most of it, and if fact has sponsored some of the larger murals. The tour ended near a market hall filled with a dozen restaurants and food vendors where we had a great (expensive) lunch. Fish and chips, Mussels and Frites, and two glasses of wine - $50.

Several styles of street art on one corner.

Me surrounded by cats, of course!

Street art naturally makes you hungry for street food!

During the tour we did pass Youngstorget Square where in 2011 Anders Breivik set off a bomb in front of a government building as a distraction while he was an hour away shooting down young people attending a political party summer camp on the island of Utoya. 77 people died that day. It's difficult to imagine such a tragedy taking place in what otherwise feels like utopia.

Another piece of public art we found fascinating was layed out in front of the City Planning building. The piece is called Grass Roots Square and was created by Korean artist Do Ho Suh. At first glance it looked like the paving stones were interspersed with squares of grass, but on closer look, the "grass" was actually made up of hundreds of tiny bronze figures. There are 500 different types of people created in different sizes for a total of 40,000 figures.

Grass Roots Square. At first we thought this was grass.

With a closer look we could see the squares were filled with people!

I could have looked at this all day. Absolutely amazing in it's scope.

Contemporary architecture mixed with old-world grandeur gave the city a vibrant skyline, while lush forests and the brisk North Sea hugged the edges. We hopped on a tram line that took us straight up into the hills behind the city to the Holmenkollen ski-jump site where we could look down on the city. The ski-jump was massive, and a little eerie looking without snow. This beautiful, half hour journey is a hoh-hum daily commute for many residents who live along the way - we should all be so fortunate. The lodge-like Holmenkollen hotel and the views from its grounds made for a great (affordable) day out.

These buildings are fondly referred to as The Barcodes.

The Ski jump from a safe distance.

The grand Holmenkollen Hotel.

The view from the top of the hill towards the fjord and the city center.

We watched the USA v Belgium match at the Boheman Sports Pub late that night. The match started at 11:00 pm here and it was still light out when we walked to the pub. We were sorry to see the USA go home - but what an interesting match to watch, if only for Tim Howard's superhuman efforts at goal.

This shot was taken shortly before Midnight!

We attended church in the Lutheran cathedral. It was elegant yet austere - kind of like Lutherans. Very Nordic and the priest was a young women who wore black skinny jeans and Tom's under her robes. Loved it. Norway's Prime Minister is a woman, as well. Good job Norway.

The Cathedral ceiling.

Michael took some time to tour the Parliament building

Our take-away was having the stork drop you down a Norwegian chimney would be a very, very good piece of luck. But remember, this is a city where you need "Summer Down", and that chilled our enthusiasm a bit. Plus very long, dark winter days could be depressing. Here's a fun blog I found about the pros and cons of moving to Norway:

A hint about the weather here. http://www.lifeinnorway.net/2014/07/are-you-sure-you-want-to-move-to-norway

Happy Fourth of July America! We love you, too.

Debbie and Michael
Senior Nomads

Men in Plaid

June 20th - June 27th. After two weeks in Ireland we flew to Edinburgh, Scotland - home of clan Campbell. My Day family heritage is equal measures Irish, Scottish, English and Welsh so I was with my people, but we are really faux Campbells. Michael's mother was fortunate to marry William Campbell after Michael's father passed away when he was very young.  However Michael's wonderful stepfather passed on some very important Scottish values to his young Danish and Portuguese son that have been the foundation for our our own family values.

We flew to Scotland on Ryanair. An airline to be avoided if you ask me. We were at the mercy of some very convoluted luggage requirements that forced us to buy an extra carry-on bag to avoid excessive checked bag fees by complying with their generous carry-on weight allowance. I guess a tick in the plus column was having the chance to do a little Spring cleaning of our belongings. We still brought most everything except my favorite condiments like good olive oil and mustard.

Ryanair also lands at the airport furthest from Edinburgh. Like an hour-and-a-half-city bus ride  further. But one thing we often have is time so no stress on our end. We spent $6.00 for the journey into town (one of the top ten bargains of the trip) and settled in on the top level of a double-decker bus and had a birds eye view all the way.

The view from our front row seats on the bus from the airport.

A sign sighted from the bus offers deep fried Haggis balls. I need to research before I take up that offer.

We were dropped right across the street from our apartment where we were met by the host's parents. They were very jolly, and very proud of their son Dario with his lovely flat and his 'fab' job. However, it soon became apparent that he needed a wife, and his mother is bound and determined to find him one. She even asked me if I knew any lovely American girls that might be willing to move to Edinburgh. He is handsome -so let me know.

Here's a link to his flat:  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1916313

A van parked outside our door - they'd better be more than good at what they do!

The pub where prisoners could have a last pint before they met their maker.

It truly was a great apartment.  We found a well equipped kitchen with a little breakfast nook - and the best flat screen TV yet! We were all set for watching the rest of the World Cup matches - made even better with BBC's world-class coverage. It's a good thing we were within walking distance of the city centre because with three matches a day we had to pop out to see the city when we could or duck into sports pub (poor us) to catch a score. It was fun to keep track of the results because of  our family pool - but it turns out I have really came to enjoy the game! Who knew?

My first and only World Cup bet £10 on the USA

Our free walking tour took us throughout the city centre including parts of the Royal Mile, the castle and some sites that inspired J.K. Rowling as she wrote Harry Potter in a upstairs coffee shop. Her perch overlooked a foreboding cemetery and a coal blackened, gargoyle covered building that was once a home for orphans but became the public school her children attended.

Our walking tour group. What a great city to explore through history.

The grave site of Voldemort where Harry Potter fans leave letters daily.

Never pass a Mr. Whippy truck without stopping. It's the best soft ice cream on the planet.

Classic Mr. Whippy - dense vanilla ice cream stuck with Cadbury chocolate stick.

Edinburgh is a manly city even though the men wear skirts. Muscular soot-covered buildings loomed everywhere and statues of great men sat (usually on horseback) in most every square. There were secret doorways, narrow alleyways, and hidden gardens. There were large churches with massive spires and an imposing castle carved into the stone hillside overlooking the city.

Back to men in kilts. I love the look - and it is very, very manly (and sexy) when you see it worn properly with all the right accessories. We are not talking Utilikilts with Sub-Pop T-shirts here.

No doubt an ancestor resplendent in the family tartan

Along the Royal Mile - with the Queen's Summer home, Hollyrood Palace, at one end and the castle at the other, beautiful gardens shops of every kind flanked the sides. I am fond of Marks & Spencer, especially the food hall, so I was happy to find a huge one in the heart of the city. Since we really only buy things that can be consumed, food and beverage browsing is my retail therapy.

I did try haggis - and it was good, but it smelled like a barnyard!

Michael spent an afternoon at the Scottish Lawn Tennis Club where years ago he organized a pre-Wimbledon tournament to allow some of ProServ's best players, including Ivan Lendl, Jimmy Conners and John McEnroe to get some practice on grass between The French Open and Wimbledon. He met with the current director who knew of the event and gave Michael a lovely coffee table book commemorating 100 years of Scottish tennis that included a section on The Bank of Scotland Grass Court Championships held between 1987 - 89. Mr. Campbell was 'chuffed' as they say here.

Michael worked with some of the best, and nicest players while at ProServ.

Staying in the sports mode we took a day trip to St. Andrew's to revisit the golf course where the British Open is played every five years. For the first time we traveled with a tour company by mini bus. It was just right for this outing. There were 16 passengers on board along with an engaging guide who took us through a seaside village and a fishing port on the way, and stopped in a quaint village for a stretch on the way back. We had three hours in St. Andrew's and that was plenty of time to watch lucky amateurs (make that wealthy amateurs) have a go at the Old Course.  Also tme for a pub lunch, a wander along the seawall, a stroll through the college campus and some time at the Abbey ruins. It turns out we were there on graduation day - so there were many St. Andrews graduates decked in robes and garters being photographed by proud family throughout the village. St. Andrew's is where Kate and William met and I could have bought the commemorative plate to prove it, but just like the tennis book, it wouldn't have made the weight cut.

The rich kids putting-out to finish their round at St. Andrews.

Michael enjoyed revisiting this magnificent course

There's always time for lunch!

A peek into the grave yard at St.Andrew's Abbey

The week went by quickly and soon we were off to Oslo, Norway! As we head to the finish line of our year as Senior Nomads, our travels are looking more like a grand finale -  bursts of short colorful stays in several cities including Oslo and Helsinki followed by stops in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. Then home to Seattle through London on July 24th!

Nomads on the move!

The Queen Anne house is rented through the end of December, so our nomadic life will continue ... so the blog may never end! Look for more posts, more often over the coming weeks.

Debbie and Michael Campbell
Senior Nomads

Everybody's a Wee Bit Irish

June 6th - June 20th. After a tearful goodbye to Mary in Paris, our next leg took us to Ireland. As we started our decent into Dublin we could see that most every part of this country truly was emerald green.

The must have look for the Irish Lass under 30. I've never seen so much long, twisted and twirled hair in my life!

We were in Ireland for two weeks so that we could watch the group stages of the World Cup with English commentary. We have become committed fans due to a family pool called The Grandpa Cup that Michael put together. We divided the family into eight teams and each team received four randomly selected countries to follow from the group stage to the finals. The last team standing and the runner-up get the honor of making a donation to a favorite charity from our Seattle Foundation Grandpa Fund. It has been great fun so far - and a good geography lesson for the youngest team, Spencer and Lucy.

Spencer takes the World Cup seriously!

Opening match of the World Cup at O'Neill's Sports Pub in Dublin

Meanwhile we found our way to our apartment in the center of Dublin's Temple Bar neighborhood.  Perhaps we should have paid more attention to the word "Bar" when we made the reservation. We met our host Alan who owned the building and runs an old-fashioned barbershop on the ground floor that even offered hot towel shaves! We knew we landed a gem as far as accommodations go - lots of light, a big deck, fast Internet and a serviceable kitchen with a well stocked fridge. Temple Bar, centre of Dublin City What we didn't know was that starting around 4:00 in the afternoon and not ending until the wee hours of the morning, we would experience the equivalent of camping on Bourbon Street. On St. Patrick's Day!

Our landlord Alan giving Michael a trim

Seriously, we could have tossed beads off the deck to all the wandering, often stumbling tourists, students, boisterous stag and hen parties, and other characters drifting from pubs and whiskey bars and off into alleyways. We were also in the cross hairs between two of the most popular live music venues and buskers on each corner. Since we were only there for a week, we made the best of it - and wisely decided against the old "if you can't fight 'em, join 'em" adage.

The pub just below us was full from open to close

We found our Dublin neighborhood a much calmer place in the light of day! There was an intriguing used book market outside our door and a nearby farmer's market. And lots of galleries and second-hand stores. Most days were sunny, and we were told many times over that we were experiencing unusually nice weather. We took our standard (and always enjoyable) free walking tour and got a well informed overview of the city and it's history. The number one reason Americans come to Ireland is to trace family history! In 2012, the Irish tourism board invited the world to The Year of The Gathering - a "come to Ireland and we will help you find your people" sort of thing. Dozens of pop-up genealogy resource centers were staffed with experts and banks of computers. Apparently it was a success.

Walking along the cliffs above Bray in a bracing breeze

A day trip to Bray was a breath of fresh air. We took an hour long train ride that hugs the coast to this popular seaside resort town and took in the cool sea breezes, lunched on hot tea and toasted cheese sandwiches, and took a long walk on the cliffs overlooking the sea.

Another day out took us to Belfast. We booked a Black Cab Tour - basically two hours spent in a cab with a knowledgeable driver who takes you to see the murals and the peace wall and some of the sites where "The Troubles" took place. It was eye-opening and very interesting. On July 12th the city will be bracing for potential new outbreaks of violence during the Orange Walk.

A stop across from the Mural wall controlled by the Sinn Fein party. The dozen or so hand-painted messages are constantly changing.

On July 12th  huge bonfires made of wooden pallets and tires are lit in Protestant parts of town to celebrate William of Orange's conquest over James the II in 1690. It is an aggressive act by the Protestants disguised as a celebration.This photo shows a pyre ready to be lit draped with the Irish flag and a statue of the Virgin Mary on top.

Part of the 22 mile long wall that divides Belfast's Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods

One of the many murals in the Shankill neighborhood - a rough Protestant area.

Signing  the Peace wall

For our second week in Ireland, we traded city life for a tranquil stay in the countryside at a farmhouse in Wexford. - We drove two hours south from Dublin along the picturesque southeast coastline.  Here's a look at our new digs: Traditional Irish Farmhouse. For only the second time in a year of travel we rented a car... so why not challenge ourselves with the steering wheel on the right side - and driving on the left? Left. Left. Stay left. Good thing we had all that practice when we lived in London. Mr. Campbell did an excellent job and we arrived at the front gates safe and sound.

Welcome to Hillbrook Farmhouse!

Hillbrook Farmhouse was the perfect antidote to life in Temple Bar. Within minutes of arrival our matronly neighbor and farm caretaker, Mrs. Mary Doyle, brought us a welcoming platter of freshly baked scones and all the neighborhood news.

Famous Wexford Strawberries for breakfast in our courtyard.

The farm was in a gentrified part of the country. Lovely homes and farms rolled away on all sides. The village of Wexford was a short drive away and offered every amenity... so we weren't in the middle of nowhere, but it felt that way once we were up the drive and tucked in.

Our nosy neighbor Victor looking for carrots.

A picture perfect church just down the lane was designed by the same architect that created Big Ben. The interior was sedate, but really stunning in its detail. The Sunday Mass was short and sweet and afterward we wandered in the cemetery. That afternoon we took a long walk on the nearby Three Rocks trail to a quarry that has been turned into a lake. I was in charge of directions so we took a more 'scenic' route due to some directional dyslexia. But we had the time and it was a crystal clear afternoon.

The view of the Quarry and the valley below was worth the trek.

Michael was able to attend two new sporting events! Gaelic Football and Hurling. Both are played by amatuers and are the two most popular sports in Ireland - even topping soccer. He enjoyed both outings very much. He has been writing great recounts of his sporting adventures to our sons and a few friends. When we get back we'll put them all in blog form so you can read his stories first hand. His opportunities to attend sports events in most every country have been a big part of the trip.

After a Hurling match it is tradition for the fans to run onto the field.

Mr. Campbell was also able to dust off his jacket and attend Rotary in Wexford. Not only was it enjoyable, but he made some new friends - a couple of whom lived near the farmhouse and invited us over to their homes. The first stop was dinner at Heike and Tom's house. Theirs was a large rose colored ranch house set back from the road and surrounded by manicured lawns and abundant gardens. We were joined by two other couples and sat in the shade for a barbecue and thoroughly enjoyed the company!

Next stop was a coffee at fireman Ray's house. He and wife Michelle and two wee bairns live in a 'house-in-progress - set on a rambling lot overlooking the Wexford valley. The reason for our visit was to learn about their nomad travels through South America where they spent a year, ten years ago. They took a more backpacks and "whatever bus looked good on the day" approach. As Senior Nomads, if we decided to give that part of the world a try, we would do it a bit differently... but it was good to hear about their adventures and learn more about traveling there.

A traditional house along the narrow roads near our farmhouse

We had some lovely days driving through rolling hills and on coastal roads. So much of Ireland is rural and often times the main roads squeeze down to a single lane barely wide enough for two cars. Just around any corner we were likely to find herds of sheep, a crumbling castle, a convoy of tractors, or a thatched roof pub. I felt like we were in a travel brochure much of the time!

As we near the end of our travels we could use a pot of gold right about now!

Rested and refreshed and with a new fondness for porridge in the morning we headed to the airport for our next stop. A week in Edinburgh. See you there!

Debbie and Michael
Senior Nomads

Vive les bébés!

May 20th - June 7th. We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris just about the same time Jacques began his arrival in a taxi and finished on a narrow bench in the waiting room of the clinic where he was supposed to be born in more appropriate surroundings!

Meanwhile we were settling into our new airbnb apartment around 10:30 that night knowing via text (no phone service at that point) that family and baby were doing well  however, we didn't have the harrowing details at that point so we crawled happily into bed after a full travel day. All was revealed in the morning ...

All fingers and toes accounted for  by two proud parents

For the full story see the previous blog titled Jacques' Bumpy Ride!

Jacques and family pal Lulac the rabbit

Mary ended up in the clinic for five days since Jacques was born with the same blood incompatibility that Marcel had, so he needed to be under the UV lights to correct jaundice and have regular blood tests to monitor anemia. There were also several follow up doctors appointments - but as of this writing he is fine. He looks very much like Gregoire's side of the family and is a lovely little man. Coco also favors that side - but Marcel looks like a little English imp - definitely favoring the Day / Campbell side. 

Baby 'Jack' under the UV lights!

Both genetic sides of the family represented here.

Our apartment was about a 15 minute walk to Mary's in a neighborhood just below Sacre Coeur on the north side. It was nice to be close by but in a different part of Paris.  https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/2471473 . The apartment itself was large and filled with really interesting books and an unusual collection of moths and butterflies impaled on pins. The owner is a graphic designer and it showed! The surrounding streets were filled with diverse and really interesting restaurants and ethnic shops of every kind, mostly African and Indian - if you get to Paris, we can recommend this as a great place to stay slightly off the beaten path - but still close to everything in the city centre by bus or metro. 

We love the 18th arondisement - but every inch of Paris is grand.

Meanwhile... the next morning we set off to meet Gregoire and head to the clinic to meet the baby! On the way Gregoire filled us in on the entire experience! Wow. Of course he and Mary, being the calm people they are took the whole thing in stride - and we had a good 'laugh 'til you cry' moment once we were all together and were holding our beautiful new grandson.

You just can't get any happier than this

Michael and I jumped in to help with Coco and Marcel and it was great to get back into that role. Michael headed back to Vienna for an event that has caught his attention as something we might be interested in replicating, so I took Colette home for a sleepover! Mooma (that's me) heaven. We had such a great time together, and for all you grandmothers reading this, you know how special these little ones are. You get parenting 'do overs' with all the patience in the world and no running around like the crazy over-scheduled parents we were. An hour for a bath (with no fun-spoiling hair washing)? Nooo problem. Up past bedtime? Why of course. Two more books? Yes please. French toast,whipped cream and strawberries for breakfast? Absolutely.

Grandpa doing what he does best!

Coco snuggled in for the sleepover!

Anything can be a bath toy - including oven mitts!

I also had a full day with Marcel and we did it up two-year old style. He is a bundle of energy and he laughs from deep in his belly. Such an easy and enjoyable companion because everything is interesting and worth exploring. And whenever possible climbing up and jumping off most anything. He also knows more about my i-phone than I do! Based on the picture below, I may have overdone it a tad by the time I got him home.

Marcel ready for whatever comes his way

Look at all those big bugs Mooma!

Hmmm. Perhaps we over did it a just a bit!

We were in Paris for almost three weeks and the time flew by. We shared meals and chores and diaper duties - cooked and just kept on laughing about it all. Sort of a slightly hysterical laugh when we thought too hard about how Mary and Greg and three babies could live in harmony in 350 square feet of living space ... but for now it works. They are working on finding the right home in the right place that allows both Mary and Gregoire to work. They have freelance careers, so that helps with flexibility but ultimately, a move somewhere outside Paris with reasonable access to the city is in order.

Michael and Mary and I spent a day in Fontainebleau (about an hour outside Paris by train) to have a look around. This would be their first choice for a new area to settle in. It is a beautiful historic city with many amenities including a huge parks surrounding a stunning castle and extensive forest land. It is a popular place to live, so currently there is a shortage of rental properties. But the right thing will come along.

Learning from an expert - napping in the sun is a good thing.

Mary and I on the palace grounds at  Fontainebleau

When not immersed in family life, we had a great dinner out with good friends Jenny and Graham Fairbanks who live in Paris, and then another lovely evening with friends from Seattle, Rob and Debbie Fleming who were visiting from Seattle. Michael and Rob were able to take in a 'friendly' football match between France and Norway as practice for the World Cup. Rob and Debbie came to Paris to attend the French Open tennis tournament.

Michael was very involved in that tournament when we lived in London when he worked for the sports management company Proserv. They represented many elite tennis players and Michael was a fixture at both the French Open and Wimbledon. He was able to spend a day at the event and caught up with some friends and colleagues from the past.

Flying the tri-color for France!

Michael and Rob taking in the match.

A beautiful day at Roland Garros.

It turned out that Mary needed to review a cooking class venue for her on-going Rick Steve's research work, so we snuck away sans children for a morning long French Pastry class. It was very well done and we ended up with three nicely crafted whip cream or pastry cream covered concoctions that ended up as lunch. Could be worse. Any time I have been able to take a cooking class during this odyssey it has been so enriching. And of course, sharing this with Mary was perfect.

Mary making piping look easy!

Dad, daughter and baby also had a day out that included a visit to the Hajj exhibit at the Arab museum - a good look at the obligation of all Muslims to visit Mecca in their lifetime and later that night took in another Rick Steve's review of a English speaking comedy club with the headliner getting people in stitches about daily life in Paris.

Too soon we said goodbye as we headed to Ireland and Scotland for three weeks and then on to Oslo, Helsinki and the Balkan states for a whirlwind tour. We look forward to seeing Mary, Gregoire and Jacques in late July for Chris and Jamie's wedding - and wish Grandma and Grandpa all the best  with Coco and Marcel for those ten days!

And thank you for reading!

Michael and Debbie
Senior Nomads

A Waltz through Vienna

May 7th - May 20th.

It is true, Vienna is a "Ye Olde" city filled with grand architecture, world-class music, ornate horse drawn carriages and decadent chocolate cake, but we found a Vienna that was modern and vibrant as well. For example...

Katarina Wurst, the winner of Eurovision 2014 is Austrian

Our apartment was quirky, but very nice. It was about a twenty minute walk from the city center - just far enough to feel like we lived in a neighborhood. And it was a great part of town with lots of bars, vintage shops, galleries and pocket parks. There was even a billiard hall where Michael watched parts of the Vienna Snooker Open. Here is the link to our apartment.

https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/2023633

Since there were no football matches to attend Michael had to add some variety to his sporting experiences

In Disneyland there are strict rules about how costumed characters comport themselves while interacting with the public. Not so in this Mozart saturated city. I had to laugh at the many bedraggled white wigged young men and women pitching concerts, tours, and other Viennese tourist offerings. Yes the men were dressed in brocade jackets, ruffled shirts and velvet breeches, and the ladies wore dresses with revealing bodices, and flouncing skirts - but they also wore Ray Bans, Nikes, smoked like chimneys and were constantly checking their cellphones. The horse drawn carriage drivers were even worse!

Correct attire

Incorrect attire

We took a walking tour on the Friday and enjoyed some of the hidden alleyways and inside courtyards not always seen on your own, and of course the vast history of this city was shared as much as it could be in two hours. We felt there was so much more to learn, we took a second tour the next day from a different company.

A city filled with statues and buildings to rival Rome

A delightful courtyard that led to Hayden's home

On our first tour we found out about a free outdoor concert to be held that night on the grounds of City Hall. It was the kick off to the Summer long series that would take place on the same stage. It turned out to be a spectacular show featuring choirs from around Europe. The facade of the building changed colors to the music and big screens shared the action.

The venue was a short walk from home so we packed a picnic and headed out. it started to rain just as we arrived - but a clever sponsor was passing out free ponchos so we joined hundreds of others that became a sea of advertising for the local bank. We made friends with a couple of delightful landscape architecture students who had commandeered a park bench. If you are willing to share a picnic, you can always get people to 'scootch' over.

An impressive building of many colors!

Our new friends with great seats.

We woke up to a sunny Saturday morning and a flea market just outside our door that stretched for several blocks. A fine start to the day. We had a great wander through the stalls full of antiques, books, records, dishes, and memorabilia - knowing you can't really add anything to our luggage makes it more fun, in a somewhat tortured way.

I did however score my Mother's Day gift. For years I have collected Steiff animals and several vendors had boxes filled with them. Not the pristine collectors items that cost hundreds of dollars, but the kind of furry friends that have enjoyed some rough play and tea parties over their lifetime. It was like being at the animal shelter and wanting to take all the kittens home, but alas I could only choose one. The winner was a Wiener as a tribute to Lola who spent almost ten years of her life at Tip Top.

I wanted them all!

The winner!

Church the next day at St. Augustin - one of the oldest and most important churches in Vienna, was not only impressive for the elaborate service, but also for a full orchestra and choir performing Mozart and Haydn classics. It was inspiring on several levels.

It was pouring rain when we came out so we sprinted for home for a nice day of resting, reading, planning, and watching Amadeus for the third time to get us in the Viennese spirit.

During our wanderings we kept seeing promotional materials for an event called Lange Nacht Der Kirchen. After seeing it so prominently advertised we had to find out what it was. We discovered it was a one night event translated to Long Night of Churches that took place all over Vienna and surrounding cities on May 23rd. The basic premise was any church could open its door that evening and offer cultural events. Anything from musical performances, to plays, to crypt tours, poetry readings, political discussions and beyond. Sort of an Open House situation where anyone interested can visit as many churches as they like and enjoy a free evening out. 

One of many churches promoting

The Long Night of Churches

We were intrigued enough to meet with the event organizers to learn more about it. The activities are chosen by the church and can be just about anything they want to showcase. The evening starts around 6:00 and in some cases goes until midnight. Without going into more detail - Michael actually flew back to Vienna from Paris to experience the event first hand with an eye towards creating something similar in the Northwest.

Other highlights; a Mozart concert performed in period costume at the majestic opera house (wigs firmly in place this time), Michael's tour of the United Nations Campus, my day at the Albertina museum, a delicious a Wienersnitchel dinner, reading in the palace rose garden and an enjoyable afternoon scouting out the extensive outdoor food market.

Sitting in the same hall where Mozart performed was a thrill

Michael took a tour of the United Nations campus in Vienna

My Vienna experience appears to have had an animal theme

Day Trip:

We took an hour train ride to Bratislava, Slovakia. Slovakia was originally part of Czechoslovakia, which split in two in the early 1990's after the wall came down and the country gained it's independence. This historic city, even though it is the capital, didn't really prosper. It was a rainy, Sunday afternoon when we visited and most shops were closed and the streets deserted - that didn't help dispel the feeling that Bratislava sits under a dark cloud. Our walking tour was interesting as always, and we learned more about the checkered history of this city - and how Prague gets all the glory (for several things that actually happened in Bratislava) and how they are constantly confused with Slovenia. We heard the other side of that story in Ljubljana. The communists did not do the city any favors as far as architecture goes, and tore down much of the Medieval old town to make way for housing blocks and widened roads so the beautiful parts of the city seemed few and far between. Unlike Sarajevo - Bratislava just didn't feel like it was going to get much better any time soon.

This gloomy sign summed up the city's atmosphere

An ancient tram running through the center

Who doesn't love a guy crawling out of a manhole? One of the best public art pieces I've seen anywhere.

We left Vienna after almost two weeks of immersion in Austro-Hungarian history, modern culture and excellent food! We are heading Paris to be with Mary for the arrival of baby number three. We will be there for 17 days and we can't wait!

See you there.

Michael and Debbie

Senior Nomads

p.s. This post is a little out of order. See the previous post for details on baby Jacques bumpy ride into this world!