Some Notes on Salzburg


If Mozart had written the soundtrack to the Sound of Music, the Austrian city of Salzburg would be double in size just to accommodate the souvenir shops, tour buses, themed restaurants, umbrella wielding tour guides, throngs of tourists, street performers, and costume shops (yes, you can dress like a composer or a Von Trapp).

Mozart meets the Sound of Music!
As it is, Salzburg's two main tourist attractions are separated by a couple of hundred years, so there is plenty of room for both to be exploited. My favorite Mozart moment was the sign outside an Italian restaurant that stated "If Mozart was alive, he would definitely eat here". He would also love a certain brand of ice-cream, his namesake chocolates, and would probably pick up a few t-shirts. Not sure about the rubber ducks. As for the Sound of Music, one store banner read: "We have Apple Strudel, Mittens, Brown Paper Packages Wrapped in String, Sorry No Kittens". Love it.

I wonder if anybody buys these for how they taste as opposed to the packaging. Yuk!
If you don't need a rubber duck you can buy a squeezy stress ball Mozart.
If you put Amadeus aside for a moment and avoid the hawkers selling Sound of Music bus tours to the hills, which are apparently still very much alive with the above, you'll find a very charming city.

We traveled to Salzburg by train from Verona, Italy. We knew we were in for a solid seven hour journey so we had our Kindles loaded, two newspapers on deck, travel Scrabble close at hand and the snack bag filled to the top. 

Most of the time, however, we were glued to the windows! The journey to Salzburg trumped any Sound of Music Tour. Miles and miles of countryside filled with vineyards, quaint Tyrolean villages and glacier covered peaks whizzed by under sunny skies. Our ride on Austria's OBB line was smooth and efficient, and the train itself was modern and very comfortable (we had a compartment for 6 to ourselves). The complete opposite of our Italian train adventure the day before.

The view from our train window as we head toward the mountains.
We love European train travel. Sure it may take three hours longer to reach your destination by train instead of by plane, but once you factor in arriving at the airport two hours early to check in, suffer multiple security checkpoints, run the gauntlet of duty free shops and join the unhappy herd at the gate, it often ends up being a push. And it's so civilized.

There is so much to see and do at the train station you could spend a day there and not go anywhere!
Train stations in major cities are fascinating. They are vast and noisy, and filled with thousands of travelers from around the world merging under one big vaulted roof. The atmosphere pulses with sounds - trains chuffing into the station, announcements in multiple languages, whistles, and the soft click, click, click of the reader boards steadily updating arrivals and departures, and the steady hum of human voices. It can seem overwhelming as you join the fray, but it is worth it since you don't have to check your bags or chug your water before clearing security, and you can settle in your comfortable seat (and maybe even at your table) and enjoy the world passing by at eye level.  

Fresh off the train and ready for a mile walk to our Airbnb.
We arrived rested and ready in Salzburg. Our hosts were out of town so we needed to collect the keys for our Airbnb from the restaurant on the ground floor of our building. Either Eva or Abraham could help us. We were expecting a Kosher deli, but instead we found two late twenty-somethings with those Biblical monikers doing a brisk business in their very stylish Mexican Cantina called Cabreras http://www.diecabreras.com/  Eva could have been Gleneth Paltrow's younger sister! Abraham is Mexican, thus the theme and the delicious food.They fixed us up with keys, beer, dessert and the wifi code and let us into the apartment above the restaurant.

Abraham and Eva, owners of the Mexican restaurant right below our apartment.
This place was one of the most unique Airbnbs we've lived in yet. It was partially carved into the side of a cliff,  and looked out over the Salzach river that bisects the city. It was large and lovely and filled with old-world charm, a little dark perhaps, but it was basically a cave so that was to be expected. We loved it! Here's the link https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1207953

The bathroom ceiling carved from solid rock.
There were a couple of other small challenges. One, having 300 year old ceilings carved out of rock meant a light dusting of grit and small stones regularly drifted to the floor, the sink and the toilet seat in the bathroom (the dust buster next to the bathroom door should have been a clue).

Michael washing dishes in a sink the size of a salad bowl.
The kitchen was smaller than the galley we had aboard the sailboat in Le Grazie. There wasn't a washing machine and the wifi was spotty. We must been so taken with the idea of cave-dwelling, we failed to do our usually thorough job of carefully reviewing the photos and the amenities list.

Lucky numbers 8 and 9 at the Green&Clean.
Laundry had built up so Michael headed to a laundromat about a half hour walk away. It was closed (as in never opening again) so he asked for help finding another one at the Tourist Office. He was directed to one a further half hour away called Green&Clean. Now Mr. Campbell knows his way around a laundromat, so he was comfortable with the system where you pay at a terminal and then push buttons to activate the machines you will be using. He did however, need to buy some soap. The dispenser for that didn't really sell anything that said "soap" so he bought "washing additive" and hoped for the best. Later he learned from the owner that soap is added to your wash automatically and you are not to add any more - Probably part of the Green&Clean bio system that keeps people from putting unsavory chemicals into the environment. Fresh, clean laundry made it home and Michael made friends with a "laundrymate" who was a professional Italian violin player in town for a prestigious music festival. You never know who you'll meet on the road.

We actually enjoyed feeling right at home in Starbucks for couple of hours.
So a bit about the wifi. The Internet signal for our apartment had to travel through thick rock walls from the restaurant below and it didn't like that very much so the signal was weak. If Michael and I were traveling for a couple of weeks on vacation this would be annoying, but not a game changer. But in our case, reliable access to the internet is critical as we book future travel, take care of day-to-day business and stay in touch with family and friends. Then there is Michael's voracious news consumption and our desire to catch up on Downton Abbey and Newsroom. We always include wifi in our Airbnb search filters, but actually, looking back we didn't check that box when we booked this place. It didn't list wifi on the features list - so our fault. We limped along and found a Starbucks nearby for doing the most critical tasks. Lesson learned.

We had rain most of the week but it didn't stop us or any other tourists from having a great time!
Once we had our bearings we discovered no matter which direction you headed, within a few minutes walk you'd be experiencing one of the Top 10 Things to Do in Salzburg. And, if you dodged the tour groups you'd find free outdoor concerts, stands offering grilled sausage and frosty beer, fantastic churches and uncrowded squares and gardens. All under the watchful eye of the magnificent Hohensalzburg Fortress on the hill.

Despite the crowds there were plenty of restful corners of the city to enjoy
We had a little business to attend to in Salzburg as well. Michael has been interested in an event we discovered last May in Vienna called The Late Night of Churches. It is an annual event where churches open their doors to the public on a Friday night in May for a free evening of concerts, tours, entertainment and discussion. A sort of "Open House" concept to encourage people to visit churches without pressure. We found out this event takes place in other European cities as well, so as we travel we meet with the event directors when we can. In Salzburg that was Johannes Wiedecke. A strapping young man who organizes this, and another week long event for Salzburg's Catholic Dioceses. He is also talented opera singer and father to an 8 month old girl. We had a great lunch discussing a wide range of topics and learned more about how the event works. Someday, we may bring it to Seattle.

An example of what Late Night of Churches could look like. This was a youth event at the Cathedral.
Our hosts came back to town and we had an enjoyable lunch together. They are really interesting people - they own a small advertising agency and have three children, 16 and 17 year old sons, and a beautiful 10 year old daughter they adopted from Ethiopia. They had just returned from three weeks in Ethiopia where they shared the story of their daughter's adoption as a baby. All three kids are talented musicians (I think it's something in the water here) but the oldest boy, Ferdinand is an exceptional pianist. He is still in high school but he also studies at the Universitat Mozarteum, one of the most prestigious music conservatories in the world and nearly impossible to get in to.

Just one of dozens of concerts available for free at the Mozart Universitat
The students there perform concerts on campus on a daily basis and our hosts invited us to join them for one of their son's performances. They also told us that we'd find dozens of free concerts at the school where the talent is so rich you could be sitting in any concert hall in the world and barely tell the difference. They were right about that! We would have never known about this treasure trove of music without having met our hosts. Almost every time we've spent time with the person that owns the home we are renting we've come away with our best and most unique experiences in that city. And that's what makes Airbnb work.

Not only did we enjoy Ferdinand's performance along with two young girls playing violin and cello, we attended two fabulous opera concerts, and three more string performances all by students ranging from 16 to 25 from all over corners of the world.

A talent scout spotted in the audience.
However, one performance we attended that will not make the "amazing" list was the Salzburg Marionette Theatre's performance of Mozart's The Magic Flute. Puppets performing opera is not a good thing - we would have been better off on the Sound of Music Sing- A-Long tour bus. Another lesson learned.

Great interactive art in the city center. Kids and adults alike loved racing the balls down the stream.
Coming up next our visit to the Czech Republic with a stop in Brno to meet with the Czech Long Night of Churches directors and then on to to Prague. See you there!

Thanks for following along,

Debbie and Michael
The Senior Nomads














Welcome Aboard the Cinque Terre!


We left the island of Malta with the Cinque Terre in our sights - a special part of Italy that hugs the coastline between Pisa and Genoa and is known as the Italian Riviera. It is a protected national park, and while heavily trod upon by tourists, the region remains much as it was for over a thousand years.


Travel challenges within Europe often include strict weight policies and flying Air Malta was no exception. Their requirements caused us to re-jig our checked luggage to meet a very restrictive
20 kg limit (that's about 44 lbs). That also involved wearing our coats so we could stuff our pockets, and jamming our carry-on bags to their maximum capacity. That made our day packs so heavy they could  easily flip us on our backs with one false step - and made us comical at security. All this was to avoid the fees for overweight luggage which is about $20. per kilo. For reference we usually travel with 23 kg in our checked bags so we could have been out $120. In reality the same kilos were going to be on the plane anyway, so this was just one of the "almost" fun things we deal with as Nomads.

Still in love after just one of many bag packing episodes
Michael is our Chief Travel Planner. I am the Chief Meal Planner. Of course we both hold middle management positions as well, but these two roles are definitely set. As we approach a travel day I plan ahead for what we might eat during the journey. For this particular trip I topped up the snack bag (cookies, nuts, apples, and oranges) and planned on getting pastries and coffee at the airport. The wish list usually includes a Diet Coke for Michael, Gummie Bears for me, bottled water after security clearance and a current English newspaper.

No matter where we are, a newspaper makes a great travel day read.
And then the miracle happened. For the first time in a long time, an airline offered a nice sandwich, a cookie and a choice of soft drink for free! Thanks Air Malta - I felt like we just got bumped to Business Class! More often we are left perusing the laminated menus in the seat pockets that offer overpriced fare you wouldn't buy at a gas station - so this seemed quite civilized. I saved our snacks for dinner - although I could have done without the extra weight in my carry on if I'd known.

Another thing we've learned as Nomads is to embrace public transportation. With a little extra time and patience you can save a lot of money by taking the local bus, tram or underground. The ticket machines usually have a button for English and the process is intuitive.

We landed in Milan and took a city bus from the airport to the central station to catch our train to Parma. It was a clunky old lady of a train but she got us there! We did need a cab for the next leg to our apartment, and since we didn't have Italian SIM cards yet we asked our driver to call our Airbnb host to let her know we were getting close.

Unfortunately, she was stuck in traffic about an hour away. Our driver wasn't happy to leave us standing on the curb with our luggage in this particular part of town, but there was nothing to be done. I left Michael guarding our bags while I scouted the neighborhood for provisions. I found a great little shop run by a Pakistani family who apparently couldn't get enough of Americans. They are very proud of a brother who owns a Dairy Queen in Denver. They wanted to know ALL about Dairy Queen so I amused them with stories of Little League teams swarming the counters after their games, and admitted my husband bee-lined for a Blizzard whenever we passed a DQ - not that I mind a dip cone.

Nuns make heavenly gelato!
A perfectly formed gelato flower.
The second best find was a hole in the wall shop near the cathedral where the gelato was made and sold by nuns - each serving was carefully sculpted into a flower, and of course it was heavenly.

Our apartment was affordable and very comfortable for a two night pit stop. Laura, the owner is an outgoing and creative young women. She moves out when renters move in, so it was definitely one of those "staying at a friends flat" experiences. She left us with breakfast treats, fluffy towels and lots of tips on enjoying Parma. Here's the link to the apartment: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1014113

Cheese or new shoes? Cheese!
When in Parma one should buy cheese, ham and olive oil. After all, this is the food capital of Italy.
So of course I bought all of those things and piled them into my already groaning suitcase. The cheese alone weighed a hefty 2.5 lbs - but for  around $12 who could resist the real thing? And now that I was free from airline weight restrictions for the foreseeable future I could binge - but the price to to be paid was hauling a very heavy shopping bag from then on. We ate the ham but we've only made a dent in the cheese and good olive oil goes a long way (literally). I can feel them both lurking in my suitcase. Here's a link to a hilarious commercial for Parmesan cheese that could only be made in Italy:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXA15HWkfCc

After two days in Parma we set off by train to Le Spezia and then onwards to our final destination of Le Grazie for a week aboard the Serena IV. Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1136445 The thought of being aboard a sailboat again was almost too good to be true.We looked forward to just relaxing on board with books and games and naps in the sun. And that is just what we did. Except on the days that it rained, but that didn't alter the plan much - and being from Seattle we were right at home. It really did bring back fond memories of being rocked to sleep on our sailboat Butterscotch in Elliot Bay Marina.
 
The Serena IV. A Custom 42 foot sailboat build in Italy 33 years ago.
The boat was in moored in Le Grazie, a small harbor-side village tucked around the corner from the tourist mecca of Portovenere. And while it was just a ten minute bus ride away, it seemed like worlds apart.

The view back to Le Grazie after a long walk.
We stepped off the bus and were met by our host's father, Carlo. He was an affable ancient mariner who spoke limited English, but like all sailors, we became instant "buoni amici". Without any explanation of where we were going he grabbed our heavy roller bags and headed off at a good clip. We hurried to keep up as he walked briskly through town, through a parking lot and finally down an obscure path flanked by tall stone walls. It was lovely, but we were a little too anxious to appreciate the scenery. The path narrowed to a single lane with encroaching vines and we had yet to glimpse a marina! Finally, after about 15 minutes we popped into a clearing and below us sat a small, sheltered marina with a view back to the village. Perfect.

The marina where we would spend a blissful week on the Serena IV.
Once we got our cumbersome bags safely across the narrow, swaying gang plank we literally did a happy dance! Carlos gave us a walk-through and since most everything was familiar from our years on Butterscotch, he left us with confidence. This was truly a "pinch me" Senior Nomad moment.

One of our best Airbnb front doors yet!
Captain Campbell making up the forward V-berth.
Now that we had our bearings we reversed course and headed back into town with more appreciation for the beautiful walk. We found the essentials - the grocery store, the church and the pub. Most of the village hugs the harbor and there were only a few more shops, a bank, a post office, a pharmacy, a deli and a couple of restaurants. Most everything other than the restaurants closed from 1:00 until 5:00 so we learned to shop early. The harbor itself was filled with a fascinating mix of sailboats and fishing vessels along with a few large yachts. The bustling boat yard had several really big sailboats up on racks for what appeared to be leisurely repair.

The harbor in Le Grazie - plenty of beautiful boats to admire.
Fresh pesto made as you watched! You could smell it down the block.
It was sunny for the first few days until some spring showers arrived. We didn't mind, since we love being hunkered down listening to the rain pounding on the hatches. We ventured out to spend a day in Portovenere - a beautiful city with breathtaking views from the ancient ramparts.

There were fantastic views from just about everywhere in Portovenere.
Looking back towards Le Grezie from Portovenere.
We also spent a day on a boat that ferried tourists to the main towns of the Cinque Terre. Climbing aboard a sightseeing boat with 100 other tourists went against our instincts but we thoroughly enjoyed the ride and meeting travelers from around the world! There seemed to be no rush as we glided along the coastline spotting clusters of ochre colored houses lodged in the cracks of the hillsides and vineyards crisscrossing the terrain like clotheslines. Every now and again we'd spot intrepid hikers walking the trial that links the main villages. From one end to the other takes about 12 hours.

I wish I'd taken this shot one minute earlier when there was a sea of selfie-sticks!
The tour boat pulling up to port - you had about 5 minutes to get on or off!
The houses along the coastline perched precariously on cliffs surrounded by vineyards.
The landscape looks like every postcard you've ever seen from here. Brightly colored houses spill down the hillside to the harbor like colorful children's blocks and the rugged hillsides are green, and the earth tilled to the last inch.

Our boat left from Portovenere and called at: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. You could get off to explore and then catch the next boat in an hour or two and carry on. We made two stops recommended in Rick Steve's video, Vernazza and Monterosso and were not disappointed.

Pulling in to Vernazza for the farmers market.
The view from the cemetery overlooking Vernazza. As final resting places go, this is tops.
After a week, it was time to say good bye to Le Grazie. We headed to Verona for a one night stay before taking the train to Salzburg, Austria. On the day we left, the skies opened and we had heavy rain squalls all day. The weather was so bad in fact, that our train from Parma to to Brescia where we would change trains to Verona, was constantly delayed. Once we realized there were 17 stops and after an hour we'd only managed three of them we knew we wouldn't be making our original connection by a long shot.

Our sad little  train from Parma to Brescia on a much nicer day.
This is where patience, a good attitude and resilience comes in. There was nothing to be done - and it was likely we wouldn't find another train to Verona where we'd book a night at a B&B so Michael began furiously working on plan B. Some very nice young Italian girls sitting across from us pulled out their cell phones and helped to find a solution. In the end we found one last train to Verona and caught it in the nick of time.

We dragged our bags the half mile to our B&B and arrived wet, tired and hungry. The owner had waited for us and seeing our state, graciously drove us to a nearby restaurant on her way home. The next morning the skies were clear and the sun was out so we sat outside and enjoyed a very nice breakfast in the courtyard. It was like the day before never happened!

Refreshed and ready for the train to Salzburg.

 It's always hard to leave Italy, but we were looking forward to our next destination - Salzburg, Austria. We'll see you there.


Thanks for following along,

Debbie and Michael
The Senior Nomads











Welcome to Malta Part II

The harbor side promenade along the waterfront in Senglea, Malta
In our continued quest for warmer weather we decided to experience springtime Malta. It seemed like a place that might be warmer than more northern European destinations so we booked the trip for early March. Michael needed to get some dental work done and we'd heard about the Medical Tourism trend in Malta so he got on the Internet to look for a qualified dentist who could follow up the implant procedure for a tooth he'd lost last summer. Before long he found a Maltese dentist who is Board Certified in the UK. When we arrived in Malta he made an appointment with Dr. Xuereb and after his consultation decided to go ahead with the procedure. We saved several thousands of dollars compared to having it done at home. The only hiccup was the actual replacement tooth could not be fitted until the implant setting had healed and that would take  at least 8 weeks. But hey, who doesn't want to come back to Malta? Read my post "Life on Planet Gozo" if you want the answer.

So, off we went to Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, Israel and Amsterdam before we returned to this island nation at the end of April. It was nice to give Malta a second chance - especially when the weather was a much improved sunny and 70°.

Dr. X, as Michael calls him, showing the successful tooth implant.
Our first visit to Malta was a mixed experience. We did not find a warm respite from the cold and in fact arrived for the tail end of what the locals deemed to be the worst winter in decades. Ours was a wet, chilly, and secluded first week on the island of Gozo and then a second, slightly improved week in the more civilized city of St. Julian on Malta. Actually, that Airbnb is still in our top five. Here's the link https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1596489

Add a few cars from the 1950's and our street corner could be a stand-in for Cuba
Welcome to our home in Malta.
This time we decided to stay in a different part of the island in an area called Senglea. It seemed within easy reach of the most attractive destinations, but a little outside the touristic center - maybe was just a titchy bit too far outside.

As the crow flies, the location made sense, but as the bus crawled it didn't. We were able to take a short ferry ride to the lovely city of Valetta, but to get to several other destinations including the dentist it was at least an hour of multiple, core-building (as in trying to keep your balance while standing) hair-raising rides on infrequent buses.

My first reaction was to compare our neighborhood to what Cuba might be like today. It certainly had elegant but crumbling architecture and faded storefronts that hinted of more glamorous times.

There were few shops and most were closed in the afternoon and definitely shut tight on Sundays. The "grocery" stores were not much bigger than a cheap hotel room filled with quirky offerings (a lot of which was alcohol). This was not going to be an enjoyable cooking experience, that was clear. Nor were dining options beyond pizza, kebabs, burgers and fried fish readily available. 

The main street of Senglea - lots of eye candy. Just no candy.
This time our Airbnb would made our bottom ten. It was an agency managed unit so we had little interaction with the actual owner after we booked it and the agent who let us in wasn't particularly familiar with the area nor very interested in answering our questions. While the apartment was comfortable - and the view was terrific, it just felt sort of cold and impersonal. We have come to really appreciate attentive hosts that have a personal interest in making the experience a memorable one. Here is the link https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5139924.

To top if off - we lost the second set of keys in the last ten minutes of our stay and had to pay to have the locks replaced! We found them two weeks later tangled up in a load of clothes at the "Green 'n' Clean" laundromat in Salzburg. Bother.

Now that I've had my vent, there were also plenty of good times to be had! First, even though the town was low on retail options it was rich in architecture and hidden viewpoints that looked out over the water at every turn. We had great walks and basked in the sun along the waterfront while watching the boat traffic and observing the locals.

Water views seemed to be around every corner.
Cruise ships arrived in Valetta early in the morning in for a long day of tourist frenzy.
Our apartment looked directly at a harbor brimming with super yachts! It was enjoyable to stroll along the dock watching crew members earning their keep by furiously scrubbing and polishing in case the boat's Oligarch owner was en-route via helicopter. Or perhaps they were getting things all shipshape for a charter - an average of $25,000. per day gets you and six close friends on board one of these babies.
Your own personal cruise ship with a full crew is just a fat checkbook away.
It was mind-boggling to think that this is a privately owned pleasure craft!
Several times a day tour boats and Hop-on-Hop off buses would drift past our window to share the views of the castle walls, the yachts, the traditional "gondola" style water taxis and the quaint houses along the quay.
The view from our balcony was the best feature of our apartment.
It also happened that Malta was hosting an International Fireworks Competition while we were there and it took place just outside our door! We could oooooooh and ahhhhhh to our hearts content from ringside seats. It was one of my favorite experiences of the journey.

Front row seats for a long night of fireworks just outside our door!
 Our day trips to Valetta offered the bustle of a cruise ship port-of-call coupled with the ancient fortifications and and antiquities of a walled city. Malta was put on the map by the Knights of St. John in the 14th century - so lots of Medieval history was on display. And yes, they really did clank around in all that armor! Of course influences from British colonization are also very apparent with plenty of nods to Victoria Regina and pubs on most every corner.

The view back to our harbor from the ramparts in Valetta.
We took our usual walking tour while there - and another in nearby Mdina. Mdina is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with history dating back 4,000 years. They have done a great job of keeping touristic offerings outside the walls, and those that are inside conform to a master plan that respects the city's history. You truly did feel like you'd stepped back in time, way back!

The ancient hill town of Mdina offered a glimpse of life in medieval times.
Michael now has a shiny new tooth and found the dentist and his staff qualified, professional, kind and accommodating. The phenomenon of Medical Tourism is definitely on the rise here and could be a good excuse to come to Malta (be sure and book our favorite Airbnb). Not only is dentistry affordable, there is a full range of other services on offer including cosmetic surgery and joint replacement at a fraction of what you'd pay in the states. And it's not a bad place to recover either.






Lick your wounds on the Maltese beach of your choice.
Our next adventure takes us to the Cinque Terra in Italy where we continue our nautical theme with a stay on a Airbnb sailboat!

Thanks for following along,

Debbie and Michael
The Senior Nomads








Family Time in Amsterdam: A Dutch Treat!


With our Jerusalem experience still swirling in our heads we headed back to Europe to one of our favorite destinations - Amsterdam. We don't often revisit cities since we feel we stay long enough in each to get an appreciation for the culture and lifestyle, but in this case, not one, but two opportunities to spend time with family made the difference so we booked a two week stay. And besides we love everything about this eccentric, historic and just plain beautiful city. It has a great sense of self and it's citizens are tall and proud and very capable, especially on bicycles. The vibe is one of laid back tolerance of humanity, but no tolerance for systems that don't work, garbage that is uncollected, and flower beds left bare. Everything here just seems to click.

We arrived in Amsterdam at the peak of tulip season.
Enjoying the city with nephew David on the right and Noah.
My nephew David and his partner Noah were finishing up a week in Paris visiting our daughter Mary and her family and then planned to spend a few days in Noah's favorite city, Amsterdam. The week following their visit, the French contingent would be on a school break so we found an family-friendly Airbnb house just outside Amsterdam in Haarlem and invited Mary to join us there, But that's jumping ahead.

Our apartment in Amsterdam was one of the best we've had. Spacious, well decorated, lots of nice touches and amenities left by our host - and a great location. We were in the stylish hoofddorppleinbuurt (18 letters!) neighborhood just off of Vondelpark, Amsterdam's version of Central Park. It was a short tram ride into the center of the city but we didn't mind being slightly out of the fray. Here's a look:  https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1357751

It was so nice to host real live guests for dinner - a rare treat.
I had a kitchen that was well equipped and a big dining room table so we hosted friends Jan and Desiree that live in nearby Leiden over for dinner. We met them in Seattle when they were slip mates of ours at Elliott Bay Marina. He is Danish and she is Dutch. We also had a great dinner with David and Noah where we caught up on news from Seattle. Both evenings felt like having dinner gatherings at home in Seattle - just in a different setting, and it made me very happy to back in that element.

Spent an afternoon enjoying Matisse and more with the boys.
David and Noah and I spent a fine afternoon at the impressive Oasis of Matisse exhibit at the Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art. All four of us spent time in the Foodhallen market and then wandered street after street filled with unique shops. We had a great Indian meal at Purna in "The Nines" neighborhood as a grand finale to their visit. You don't realize how much you miss family and friends until you have them in a big hug at your doorstep.

After a full week in Amsterdam we moved house to Haarlem where we rented a large family home in anticipation of a week with Mary, Gregoire, Colette, Marcel and baby Jacques! The house was perfect for all seven of us: four adults and three children. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/5306203

Haarlem turned out to be so charming it seemed more like a movie set than a real city. There were canals with baby ducks, tulips everywhere, towering church spires, farmer's markets, flower stands, beer halls, bakeries, playgrounds and pot stores. What's not to love?

Mary and I enjoyed the farmer's markets and cooking together.
A lot of words to say no parking!
The best part was the mix of old and new - we loved walking down cobbled streets lined with houses that were hundreds of years old but very much lived in today. The Dutch are very comfortable with passersby peering into their street level windows, because historically puritans had nothing to hide! So it was easy to see large flat screen TV's hanging on timbered walls and very urbane kitchens with ancient floor tiles and the odd brick oven, and of course nothing untoward. 

1670 is the year the house was built, not the street address! Note the large window.
My favorite house in our neighborhood - especially well decorated inside as seen through the windows!
How most folks get around including kids and babies.
This was a favorite of the many forms of human powered transportation.
The owners of the house have two little girls so there were lots of toys - especially of the princess and pony variety so Colette was in heaven. But there were plenty of things for all the kids to enjoy and Jacques could chew his way through any number of things. There were parks and canals everywhere and we could walk or bike the entire city.

Princess Colette was a very happy girl.
Who needs toys when you can climb on Grandpa!
The week flew by! With a 4 year old, a 2 year old and an almost 1 year old it seemed like it was always nap time, feeding time, bathing time, story time, play time, bed time and (for the grown-ups) collapse time. There were games and puzzles and snuggles with the kids and wonderful adult time with Mary and Gregoire.

Snack time for Marcel, Jacques and Mary.
It was Coco's turn to learn backgammon from Grandpa. He's taught all of our kids to play and now the third grandchild!
Marcel helping make Pain au Chocolat for breakfast.
A highlight of the week was celebrating King's Day! This national holiday was declared in 1885 to commemorate the Monarch's birthday - be they King or Queen. Since then it has turned into one wild party for all ages - and a day to proudly wear orange, the national color.  It starts early in the morning with city wide yard sales. The kids are out selling their toys and the grown-ups clear out the attic. Almost every house has a table or blankets out in front. There are also bake sales, beer stands, street music and entertainment. The atmosphere is like one giant neighborhood street party. After about 4:00 most of the family friendly part of the day is done and adults take over the streets to drink and sing and carry on into the night.

King's Day in Amsterdam - we were happy to celebrate with less frenzy in Haarlem.
The night time Flower Parade through the streets of Haarlem.
There were Kings Day entrepreneurs who charged 50p to pee!
Thanks for indulging me in some Grandparent sharing. Having family here in Europe has been a special part of this journey. And certainly meeting up with friends and family from the States is always a treat.

Happy First Birthday Jacques! May 20th, 2014 this little man joined the family.
We are currently in Salzburg heading to the Czech Republic tomorrow for stays in Brno and Prague. I am a blog or two behind since we left Amsterdam so stay tuned for a Malta redux and time in the Cinque Terra in Italy.

Thanks for following along.

Debbie and Michael
The Senior Nomads



Part II - Michael Answer Questions from Readers

 
After the article ran in the New York Times and other publications at the end of February we received lots of emails from readers who were encouraged by our journey. The emails also included questions that might be categorized as "how to" do what we're doing. On March 22nd, I wrote a blog post that addressed the issue of budget.Today, I set aside some time to answer a few more questions.

We are currently staying in our 58th Airbnb since we started in the summer of 2013, but this time it's not a house, not a flat, not an apartment but a sailboat. Who knew that you could find "boats" on Airbnb? We didn't until our son-in-law Gregoire showed us how.

Our family started sailing  20+ years ago so being on the water is part of our DNA. When we decided to become Senior Nomads, we made the difficult decision to sell our sailboat, Butterscotch. When we learned that Airbnb included boats we quickly started searching for sailboats and voila, about 6 weeks ago we found one in Italy in the Cinque Terre Region. In the meantime, we visited Cyprus, Israel, Amsterdam and Malta before getting aboard Serena IV last Friday here in Le Grazie, Italy.

All this means that we are far from museums, food markets and football matches so this was a perfect opportunity to spend some time on the laptop. Hopefully this information will be helpful to those who are planning an adventure similar to ours.

Gelato has no calories when eaten before noon

Q. How do you stay in Europe for more than 90 days at a time?
A. This has been the most common question we've received. We're certainly not experts, but we can tell you how we did it.

If you are not familiar with the Schengen Zone, here is a link to a site that is a good place to start - http://www.schengenvisainfo.com/schengen-visa-countries-list/. As you will read, the 26 countries of the Schengen Zone have agreed on certain rules for immigration. My knowledge is limited but I do know that citizens of the USA are welcome as tourists within the Schengen Zone for a total of 90 days within any 180 day period. Since we were planning on staying longer we obviously needed to see how to get through that hurdle.

Early on we learned that France, and maybe some other countries (Spain and Sweden?) offer long term visas up to a year if a person meets certain requirements. We researched the requirements with the help of our daughter Mary (the one who is married to Gregoire, the Frenchman, living in Paris.) We found the details online at the French Consulate in San Francisco which is the one closest to our home in Seattle. Here is a link to the details - http://www.consulfrance-sanfrancisco.org/spip.php?article2703.If you scroll down to #6 you will find the list of requirements.

One of the requirements is an in-person meeting with a French Consulate and that seemed like a good excuse to go to San Francisco, so in April 2013 flew to San Francisco loaded with paperwork and  our checkbook for the appointment we'd booked online. To make a long story very short, I'm happy to report that two weeks later, we received confirmation of our visas.

When we got to France in July we reported to the nearest immigration office (OFFI), completed more paperwork, paid some additional fees and passed a  physical exam which completed the process. (See stickers in our passports below.)

Then last summer we repeated all the process and received another one-year visa which runs through November of this year. The whole process was not without its challenges but we are happy we jumped through the hoops because we've been able to travel easily in and out of the Schengen Zone Countries for almost two years without counting days. As the Master Card slogan goes, the peace of mind has been "priceless".

Our current Long Term French Tourist Visas honored throughout the Schengen Zone
Q. What do you do about mobile phone service outside the USA?
A. Before we left Seattle, we cancelled our monthly cell phone plans and bought pay-as-you-go plans from AT&T. This allowed us to keep our American phone numbers for something like $10/month. Since we are not in the states, we don't get charged for making calls. We recorded a  message that said we were traveling and the only way to reach us was by email. We also had AT&T unlock our phones so we could put in SIM cards that work in the country we are in at the time. 

In Europe we purchase a new prepaid SIM card in each country. This means we have a new phone number every time we arrive in a new country but it has worked really well for us. We spend less on phones that we did in the states. The amount we spend each month depends on how often we move from one to country to another but on average, we spend about $50/month for each phone which gives us a set amount of local (in country) minutes for phone calls and text messages as well as data (access to the Internet). Every country has lots of cell phone providers to choose from. Some of the most common are Vodafone, Wind, T-Mobile, Tele2 and Orange.

Every time we move to a new country we send an email to our family with our new phone numbers just in case they need to reach us in an emergency. For our regular communication with family and close friends we use FaceTime and Google Hangout.

Purchasing SIM card in Turkey. So far we've had 30 + phone numbers since leaving home
Q. How do you travel within Europe and estimate expenses?
A. It may come as a surprise but travel within Europe has not been as expensive as you might think. We started out staying two weeks in each city which meant moving camp twice a month. Over time, we have shorted the stays which means we travel 3-4 times a month has increased travel between cities but we work hard and use the Internet to minimize expenses. Our two favorite apps are: www.rome2rio.com and www.skyscanner.com.

Our top four travel games: Scrabble, backgammon, dominoes and cribbage. I win occasionally.
We fly when it makes sense. Otherwise, we use public transportation: trains, buses and ferry boats. Flying on high-traffic (and thus super competitive routes is affordable thanks to Ryanair and Easy Jet). For example: Last fall we flew from Paris to Bilbao, Spain for $90 each. Recently we flew from Malta to Milan for $63 each and last month we flew from Tel Aviv to Amsterdam for $179 each.

We get most of our news online but finding a paper copy of the International NYT is a travel day treat
Local trains can be very affordable. We use buses whenever it makes sense. Usually we find that buses cost about 1/2  the cost of train tickets. The buses have all been very "first class" in that they are comfortable, roomy and often have a WC aboard even in Morocco and Turkey. Here are a couple of examples: Naples to Bari, Italy $14 each. Tallin, Estonia to Riga, Latvia $30 each. Madrid to Seville, Spain $25. The scenery is often spectacular and you almost always end up in the center of your destination.

Aboard one of the many ferry boats we took in the Greek Islands
Q. What do you do for Medical Insurance in Europe and back home?
A. We purchased Medical Insurance that covers us while we are outside the United States through an online company we found called www.insuremytrip.com. I am sure there are others to choose from. I was not sure how much coverage to purchase or how large a deductible made sense so I just used my best judgment and went for it. I liked the fact that the policy included "evacuation coverage" in case either of us got really sick and needed to be flown home. Quite frankly, that seemed like the most important benefit.

So far, we have not had to make a claim for any medical expenses outside the USA. For the small aches and pains we've had, we've just paid cash at local pharmacies with two short and affordable doctor visits in Paris.

At home, we kept our medical coverage...just in case we got really sick and needed to go home in a rush. I am on Social Security so get my coverage through Medicare plus a supplemental policy. Debbie has an individual policy through Regence. We did raise the deductible on Debbie's to lower the monthly premiums since we not in the states. There is no way to know if our approach was the right one but it just felt right for us.

A big shop. This one for a week's supplies on the Euro debit card in Malta
Q. How do you pay your day-to-day expenses in Europe and keep up with mail?
A. We have visited all 19 countries that use the Euro. That leaves 12 countries we've visited who use their own national currency. Two months before we left Seattle in 2013 we opened a bank account in Seattle with HSBC, an international bank with locations around the world (including Seattle). If you meet their minimum balance requirements, then you can open an account in another country. We chose France. There is no charge for opening the account. Without this work-around or some other, you can not open an account in without establishing residency. (Or, so I believe). In any case, this has worked very well for us.

Each month we transfer funds online from our American HSBC to our French HSBC account which has a debit card with a European chip and PIN. So, we can use the card without any bank fees or currency transaction fees for each transaction drawing down our Euro account. In particular our HSBC debit card also allows us to use any ATM worldwide without incurring bank charges which is how we get cash for our daily spending.

Our Euro debit card with PIN. As you can see it's a little worn around the edges from regular use.
If we are in a non-Euro country then we still use our HSBC card to withdraw cash in the local currency, however, we avoid using the card for daily expenses to avoid transaction fees and currency conversion fees. This means we pay for more things in cash in non-Euro countries.

Restaurant receipt from Lithuania before they converted to the Euro earlier this year.
As far as mail is concerned, we  rented a P.O. box in Seattle which was very affordable. Our son lives right around the corner from the facility so once a month he goes to the mail box and scans any mail he thinks we need to see and sends us a PDF with all the correspondence. Over time, the amount of correspondence has become less and less. Now, we probably get a 10 page PDF from Chris each month. We have some U.S. checks with us so if needed, we can mail a check to pay a bill, or more likely just go online and pay for it using a USA debit card or bill-pay online.

I hope these answers were helpful and inspiring! There are still a handful of questions we have received which I'll answer soon. Debbie is looking forward to writing about packing,  provisioning and cooking on the road.

We leave Italy tomorrow on the train heading north to Verona where we're thinking we'll find a bus that will take us through the Alps to Salzburg and then on to Brno and Prague in the Czech Republic for 10 days. After that, we'll see which way the wind is blowing.

Safe Travels!

Michael