I woke up to find we’d been vandalized. Someone had scattered our bananas on the counter and the ripest part of each one had been devoured like a bite out of a donut. Obviously, we’d had a visitor in the night. Our neighbors just below us said, yes, they’d had a papaya pilfered and an avocado knawed on, but they knew the culprit. A rangy red squirrel that scampers along the power lines raiding the kitchens of unaware Gringos.
Your bananas or your life Amigo!
Our Airbnb is wonderful, and one of the things we love about it is the layout. The large deck opens into the kitchen and is only eclosed by a gate. There is no way to prevent squirrels or cats or other critters from entering, so it was up to us to find a solution. I put the fruit and things like nuts and cereal behind cupboard doors and thought that would do it. Who knew squirrels liked bread? I went to make toast the next morning and there was a gaping hole in the bag and several slices had been reduced to crumbs. I finally removed anything that wasn’t in a can or a jar from the open shelves and stuffed them in the cupboards as well.
Last night we came home after a dinner out and found little bits of wood on the floor - we followed the trail and found our interloper must have brought in a squirrel-sized chain saw and used it on the wooden slats of the cupboard doors. He made great progress but didn’t cut through far enough to gain entry. But to be safe, I’ve moved the fruit to the oven!
Our open-air penthouse perch comes with fantastic views, but also allows creatures from the great outdoors to wander indoors.
It’s all part of the fun of living in the center of Puerto Vallarta, halfway up a steep slope overlooking the center of town. Our place is jammed in with dozens of similar open-air homes, and we all have spectacular views of Banderas Bay from balconies and decks. We also get a cool breeze that flows through the house. A life-saver after the sweat-inducing hike up a labyrinth of uneven stairs and stone-paved roads that look like dry creek beds.
Here’s Michael, once again manhandling our big bags - but this time he’s pulling them up three stories by rope and pulley from the street. It was that or haul them up three flights of winding metal stairs culminating in a spiral staircase to our penthouse!
Obviously, we also get squirrels. And curious birds. And we get roosters at 5:00 am and yowling catfights that set off dogs barking. And church bells on the hour. And cars that backfire that set off dogs barking. And blaring car radios, and lumbering garbage trucks that set off dogs barking. And we enjoy boisterous yo-ho-ho-ing from a pirate ship that sets anchor in the bay just below us every night. After three weeks, I almost have the show memorized. At 10:00 pm just after the church bells clang ten times, the pirates let our their last AAARRGGHS and then launch magnificent fireworks - which set off dogs barking. But we love it here! And wouldn’t change a thing. In fact, I am sure we will book this very same place next year!
The Puerto Vallarta Pirate Extravaganza gets rolling in front of our balcony. We can hear most every aaargh and pistol shot - but we are treated to nightly fireworks so I don’t mind.
This stay is the first time we’ve booked a place for a month. We’ve also booked a month in San Miguel de Allende, our next stop. Previously, our longest stay in one place was three weeks, and that was rare. Today, we are at the three-week mark and while I feel ready to leave, I am happy we have one more week of living very locally in this bustling beach town.
It’s been nice to have enough time to find the really good local markets and avoid those that stock overpriced groceries for tourists. Although I was pleased to find Skippy extra crunchy peanut butter :)
We’ve had enough time to really figure out where to shop at local prices, what restaurants to avoid and how to dodge Mariachi bands. How to take the bus (an adventure), where to get a haircut, how to get a computer issue resolved, and where to drop our laundry. We’ve taken a great free walking tour from Vallarta 101 and will take their free Taco Walking Tour and free Seafood Walking Tour this week. We’ve enjoyed concerts on the Plaza de Armas, beach time under thatched palapas while eating grilled mahi-mahi on a stick, found the best 2-for-1 Marguerita Happy Hour at Hotel Rosita, and enjoyed strolls along El Malecon - a lively boardwalk that stretches over a mile along the edge of the bay.
Scenes from the Malacon. Including an amazing man they call The Stone Whisperer.
The scene along the way changes from high-end retail shops, galleries, and bronze sculptures at the north end, to pop up ceviche stands in the sand and dozens of vendors selling souvenirs on the beach as you walk south. And of course, there are bars, bars, and more bars. Once you’ve passed over the river into the Romantic Zone, gray-haired baby-boomers are gradually replaced by gay couples enjoying laid back life in PVR.
Beyond people watching on the Malacon, there are endless ways to be entertained in this city. No matter if you are Canadian snowbirds (the largest population), party-hardy tourists, cruise boat day-trippers, or happily married men from Munich, there is something for everyone. Just pick up a weekly copy of the PV Mirror and start circling your choices! If we’d known about this paper, we would have downloaded a copy before we arrived - a good idea if you are planning a visit!
Hear a bit of Brandon & James here.
If you’d rather not be held captive on a pirate ship for hours, you can choose from dozens of drag queen acts, boy bands, lounge singers, Broadway tributes, stand-up comedy, and bingo! We enjoyed a performance called “Rock the Opera" by Brandon & James at the Palm Lounge. They are an outstanding duo who play piano and cello and belt out operatic versions of popular songs. And just to even things out, we attended a Democrats Abroad lecture on the state of the 2020 elections. We may splurge on one more show - The Best of Broadway on our last Friday night.
The beach in PVR is a never ending playground for locals and visitors alike!
Speaking of splurging - it’s almost hard to do here. The prices are so reasonable that sometimes you do a double-take. I mean, you could spend a fortune on dinner, but why would you? The food at the hole-in-the-wall restaurants here is so fresh and affordable, that you can dine on chips and guacamole, fresh seafood (sometimes more shrimp that you can eat) salad and a cold beer for five bucks. And an hour massage from a man who knows his kneading is just $17. Two loads of laundry washed and folded, just $7 and even tickets to the best of the stage shows cost less than $25.
It’s affordable and longer stays like this that allows us to spend time in more expensive cities - because just like our little squirrel, we are storing our acorns (or apparently, here in Mexico, avocado pits) for later! Next time I’ll fill you in on our day trip to Sayulita by bone-rattling bus, the rest of our stay on PV, and the new friends we made who follow the blog!
Michael and I trying a little “stone whispering” ourselves as we get ready for our week as Guest Faculty at the Modern Elder Academy - where building cairns is “a thing”. Learn more about MEA below.
Thank you for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell
The Senior Nomads
NOTE: Michael and I have been invited as Guest Faculty for a week at The Modern Elder Academy - the world's first midlife wisdom school. We will be sharing our story, along with our “wisdom” on a wide range of topics including how full-time travel has influenced our world views, our well being, our relationship, and our outlook on life. Of course, we’ll also share some practical advice on how to become a Senior Nomad. Applications are due by March 22, so if you are interested contact MEA soon! We’d love to see you there.
The Modern Elder Academy offers week-long retreats built around mid-life introspection and camaraderie in a breathtaking setting. Join us June 7th through 14th to explore how travel can be transformative.
