Everything you read about Samarkand is true. It is a magical city filled with ancient sites that transport you back to the heady days of Silk Road trading. You can almost picture the camel caravans and the boisterous marketplaces.
We spent four days exploring this gem, and it was everything we had hoped for. And more. This part of the world is gaining popularity as a destination, but it wasn’t overcrowded and we could view the inside of the Bibi-Khanum Mosque, Shar-i-Zinda Mausoleum, and the vast courtyard and sacred buildings of Registan Square with reverence.
Our guide, Gulnara, provided by IrenePlus Travel, was excellent. She was knowledgeable and able to answer all of our questions about the past, modern-day customs and traditions, and the current political situation including Uzbekistan’s relationship with neighboring Russia.
Mr. Curious himself asking Gulnara political questions about the relationship between Uzbekistan and Russia.
Nara was very proud of her country, and that is a feeling we got from almost everyone we met. In fact, our visit to Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara became more of a story about the extraordinary people we met than the sights we visited.
As I said, you can read about the wonders of this part of the world, but the guidebooks may not tell you how warm and hospital the people are. Maybe, after centuries of being at the crossroads of the world's most important trading route, hospitality is in their DNA. Everyone we met was gracious, kind, and genuinely willing to share their last fig.
These adorable “Babaychik” clay figurines of men and women offering hospitality were everywhere.
The owner of the boutique hotel where we stayed was a prime example. For a variety of reasons, we decided not to stay in an Airbnb in Samarkand. And I am glad we didn’t because the staff and the travelers we met in the small shared courtyard of the new Arka Boutique Hotel were as engaging as any monument. Anvar, the proprietor, fell in love with Italy and decided to open this 23-room oasis styled after the coliseum in Rome. I’m not sure he succeeded from a design standpoint - but he created an intimate, circular space where guests cannot help but interact.
Especially since there isn't an elevator (try that in America). So getting to and from your room along the curving open stairways became a social activity. There wasn't a restaurant or bar (other than the room set for breakfast in the morning), but you could buy a bottle of wine (or BYOB) and sit at the cozy communal table you can see in the lobby photo.
The small staff was dedicated to ensuring guests had a great experience - and there was enough English spoken between them to make things go smoothly. However, when we asked for help getting tickets to a local football match, the young man at the front desk looked at us like we’d asked to book a flight to the moon.
We love going to sports events whenever we go, so we were not deterred by his hand-wringing and insistence that Samarkand FC wasn’t worth the ticket price of $2.00. Eventually, with the owner's help, we "crazy Americans” were sent off to the match. In the end, they were impressed we were keen to experience such a grassroots level of life in Samarkand.
We had a great time. The compact stadium was within walking distance, and the best part was interacting with the fans. Of course, we were obviously foreign, and I was one of two women in the stands, so we became an instant photo op! Michael had fun whooping and cheering with the locals, who found that hilarious.
While sitting in the lobby one evening, I met a Canadian couple about my age. David Young and his husband have been traveling for years and, through personal experience, decided that fellow tourists should have direct access to affordable qualified guides. So David started a company called Tours by Locals.
It's simple. You go online, enter your dates and destination, and dozens of vetted guides-for-hire worldwide are at your fingertips. Most are geared toward small groups (like a family or friends traveling together). Still, many are available for one or two people. I told David that we would be heading to Tunisia after our stay in Uzbekistan, and he quickly arranged a guide for us at no charge. There were few strings attached other than if we were happy with the experience, would I be willing to mention it in a blog? So here it is, folks. This is an excellent service! We were given three guides to choose from for a day of sightseeing in Tunis and selected Noureddine. Not only was he courteous, knowledgeable, and good company, but we hired him for another full day and also to drive us between cities and to the airport.
Our Tunisian guide Noureddine that we found through Toursbylocals.com - where you can find guides anywhere in the world.
Meeting interesting people continued at a pace. While we were eating dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, a young man sat at the next table. He just ordered soup, and we could sense he was tired and distracted. We started a conversation and learned he had just fled Moscow to avoid conscription into the army. It would turn out that we met several young men in the same situation during our time in Uzbekistan. He wasn’t sure of his plans but had another Russian friend on the way, and they would share a flat and try to find work. After dinner, we walked together for a while and wished him all the best with a hug.
We met these Russian exiles in our hotel lobby. Somehow they had connected with the young man we met the night before - that’s him in back on the left.
The next day a boisterous group of Russians checked into the hotel. They, too, had left Mother Russia for parts unknown. They were all creative professionals in their 40s hoping to become digital nomads somewhere in the world. Thailand was on the table, or perhaps Indonesia. Michael’s curiosity, as always, led to fascinating conversations about the current situation and what the future of Russia might look like. As Michael said “It's one thing to read about young men fleeing Russia in the Western media, it is quite another to meet them in person, hear their heart-wrenching story, and see the fear in their eyes as they wonder what the future holds for them and their families.”
But the real “It’s a Small World After All” moment came on our last day. Samarkand was selected as the host city for the 2022 SCO (Shanghai Cooperation Organization) Summit. An annual gathering of world leaders from China, Russian, India, Pakistan, and “The Stans." So that meant President Putin, Chairman Xi, Prime Minister Modi of India, and regional heads of state were hosted and feted by Uzbek President Miriziyoyer last September.
In the five-year run-up to this prestigious event, Samarkand was buffed and shined from one tiled dome to the next, and new parks and public works were installed. Roads were widened, and unsightly buildings were torn down and replaced with new retail and housing complexes. And ultimately, a destination called Silk Road Samarkand rose out of the desert on the edge of town.
The Silk Road Samarkand complex on the edge of the city includes a utopian version of a traditional village, several mega hotels and a magnificent conference center.
This dazzling architectural wonder was created to showcase Uzbekistan and host the SCO events. It includes a state-of-the-art conference center, several stunning hotels, and a recreated traditional village called The Eternal City. We’d seen all the other sites and decided to visit this homage to Samarkand and the Silk Road.
Once again, we baffled the hotel staff. Why would we want to go there? They didn’t know anything about the place - but reluctantly put us in a taxi for the 30-minute journey. The driver was also unfamiliar with the site and dropped us off at one of the hotels instead of the recreated city. We found the place eerily quiet - other than dozens of workers tending the landscape. Since there was no one to ask, we tried to get our bearings.
This is the conference center. Notice the dual helipads on the left. We were dropped here … and found the boat on the canal.
We stumbled across a long, man-made canal that divides the two complexes. The conference center and hotels on one side and the tourist destination we wanted to visit on the other. There was no crossing that we could see. But as the adage goes, “Don’t leave five minutes before the miracle!” As we approached the water, I spotted a beautiful wooden boat that could possibly get us across. We rushed down to see if we could catch a ride on the “ferry”. Several jocular middle-aged men were aboard, and we asked if anyone spoke English. A dapper, younger man who’d been on the phone nearby responded and said he could help us.
It turned out there was a private party aboard. And it wasn’t just any boat or any party. The vessel was a luxurious recreation of a 1950s Venitian Motor Yacht and the gentlemen were the highest level of executives from the complex.
Only two of the eight men onboard spoke some English, but they quickly invited us to join them! The man we first met, Bekhzod Zufarov, was the Conference Center Director. He helped us aboard and did the introductions. But first, a vodka toast! They had already imbibed several vodka toasts, and our arrival made an excellent excuse for more! We demurred since we don’t often toss back spirits - but not to be deterred, an extravagant bottle of champagne appeared. Then it was time to share our story.
Soon there was western pop music blasting, and being the only female for miles, I was the defacto dance partner. I was especially popular with the President of Samarkand City - definitely “The Godfather” of the bunch. They were all delightful and genuinely seemed pleased we’d crashed the party.
Eventually, we took a tour of the canal and pulled up to the dock at the Eternal City. We thought we’d part ways, but no, now it was time for a tour and lunch! The “village” turned out to be an impressive showcase for ancient craftsmanship and modern amenities. There were craft people who were making traditional clothing and pottery. A fruit and vegetable market beckoned, fresh bread was being baked in clay ovens, and plenty of specialty shops and authentic restaurants were open. And an open-air stage was set for concerts and performances.
We had a delicious lunch with more toasting in a private dining room, and again we thought the party was over. Not quite. Out of nowhere, a band of musicians began playing in the courtyard below us. Michael and I were gifted beautiful hand-embroidered robes and caps to put on. Why? So we could dance to the music as honored guests!
We were led downstairs, and soon a crowd formed to watch us twirl around with our hosts and anyone else who cared to join in. We were photographed like rock stars and passed from one partner to another. Now it really WAS time to head home. Of course, from nowhere, a private car appeared to take us back to our hotel in style. We did our best to try and return the hats and robes but that was absolutely not acceptable no matter what - but we were able to donate them to the Sister City Organization in Tashkent for future use. They were thrilled.
I know this blog was light on tourist attractions, but as I said, you can read all about the wonders of this amazing city online. It really is beautiful and oozes history. But for us, our encounters with locals and other global citizens will be the memories we cherish.
Thanks for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell,