We flew into Bogota on May 9th during a seasonal downpour. Fortunately, our Airbnb host had arranged for a driver to pick us up at the airport so we were whisked out of the arrivals hall and into a nice warm car. The headrests were fitted with video screens so we were treated to an hour's worth of 80's MTV music videos while we slowly made our way into the city. That was a first - but the music sort of matched the amazing amount of street art and graffiti we passed along the sides of the highway and in the town center.
I had no idea how big and how modern Bogota is. Wikitravel claims Mexico City and New York City are the only North American cities larger than Bogotá. In fact, the World Cities Study Group and Network (GAWC) from the United Kingdom ranked Bogotá as a world city comparable to San Francisco, Washington DC, Dubai, Buenos Aires, or Berlin, grouped by their economical, political, and cultural developments.
In the center of this vast city is a colorful, historic neighborhood called La Candelaria, and that’s where we booked our home for the next seven nights - and it was perfect. This Airbnb had the “authenticity” of our Cartagena bungalow, but all the modern conveniences of our Medellin place. The bed was comfortable and the linens were lux. The shower was great and there was plenty of space for our things (always a bonus) And we even had a working fireplace.
It gets better. There was a welcoming bottle of wine, fresh flowers, and a basket of treats on the table. The kitchen is outfitted with everything you’d need to prepare meals - including food! There was pancake mix, rice, and pasta in beautiful glass jars, and a breakfast station with fresh Columbian coffee, hot chocolate, bread, eggs, and cereal. And of course, cupboards stocked with olive oil, staples, and spices. It really felt like home.
It was a good thing our place was nice because we had two media interviews take place in the apartment! One was for a popular German television documentary series called Galileo on how Airbnb has changed the way people travel. Our interview was just one part of the final piece, but a film crew spent most of an entire day with us filming inside the apartment and around the neighborhood.
We spent almost an entire day with a local film crew working for the German TV station. And here are our fabulous Airbnb hosts Pablo, Patricia and daughter Mariana.
The producer asked us to invite our hosts to the apartment for some “interaction”. They filmed us meeting them and chatting over a glass of wine. And then filmed a separate interview with them about hosting. It was a little staged - but it was enjoyable to spend time with Pablo, Patricia, and their young daughter who thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Of course, the best part was getting to know this delightful, entrepreneurial couple. Watch for more Airbnbs hosted by Patricia and Pablo!
The crew from SoHo magazine. They did an interview for print and also the video linked below.
The second interview was for a Columbian lifestyle magazine called SoHo. It was only after the journalist and her camera crew arrived that we learned it was similar to Playboy. Great articles, of course, but a few lightly clad ladies fill the pages as well. In both cases, we had fun with the crew members and got some very insider information on the best places to visit and where to eat in Bogota.
We took our usual Free Walking Tour on the second day of our week-long visit. We met at the Gold Museum - about a 15-minute walk from our Airbnb. Several different walking tours in a range of languages all gathering at the same place but we finally found the red umbrella and headed out to see the highlights of Bogota. Our guide was great. Not only did he have a passion for the city, but he was also a walking encyclopedia on its colorful history. The more we learned, the more fascinating this city became.
The courtyard and front door of our Airbnb
The tour took about three hours and it was a warm day, so we were relieved that it ended just a few blocks from our Airbnb. And we also congratulated ourselves on picking a place in La Candelaria because many of the attractions, including important street art and restaurants he pointed out on the tour were just a short walk from our front door.
The beautiful courtyard that separates the three museums that make up the Banco de la Republica Art Collection. There is also a very nice Italian restaurant that sits off to one side.
A highlight of our time in Bogota was a visit to the Banco de la República Art Collection displayed in three museums housed in a former mansion. One is filled with art by renowned Colombian painters, one is dedicated to banking and the history of Columbian currency, and the most popular, The Museo de Botero - is dedicated to Columbia's most celebrated artist. Michael and I were given a free tour in English by a young staff member that really helped us take it all in.
You know a Botero when you see one!
Fernando Botero is Colombia’s most influential painter and sculptor and his works are internationally acclaimed. He donated more than 200 pieces of art to the Banco de la República in 2000 under the condition that the museum must always be free to the public. Most of those pieces are works by Botero himself, but also included are works by famous artists such as Picasso, Renoir, Dalí, and Matisse. Botero’s own work is easily recognized for depicting people and figures in large, exaggerated volumes.
This is how I felt in the Gold Museum when my audio guide kept crashing.
We also spent time in the Gold Museum (Museo d' Or) Personally, I didn’t think it was as good as the reviews, although there was a sizable collection of gold and pre-Colombian artifacts. It seemed to me that most of Colombia’s treasures were carted off by Europeans, and what was on display were the best of the leftovers. Maybe I was just having a bad museum day.
There was color and art and music and amazing architecture at every turn in Bogota.
Most of our meals out were Empanadas on a street corner followed by ice cream, but we did have one memorable restaurant experience. Lunch at La Puerta Falsa. Something about the look of it appealed to us (maybe the line out the door) and I am glad we followed our instincts. The same thing must have happened to Anthony Bourdain because he called this place an “undiscovered gem.”
The interior of La Puerta Falsa looks twice as big because one wall is all mirror!
The cozy interior was packed with diners on two levels along with all of us in line for a small table or a stool facing a narrow counter upstairs. The menu was limited to five items - all traditional Colombian fare. Michael had their famous version of Ajiaco Soup, a broth made from chicken and three types of potatoes and served with a chunk of corn-on-the-cob, shredded chicken, avocado, and crema. I had a Tamal - a large corn tamale filled with mildly spiced chicken and pork belly wrapped in a banana leaf. Both were delicious and very affordable.
Not the prettiest picture of me - or the food, but we were smashed up against a wooden counter on a back wall. The food is nothing fancy as you can see, but delicious!
Michael squeezed in another football match via Airbnb Experiences. And just like in Medellin, he was draped in a plastic poncho in team colors.
Michael and his mates at another football match in the rain!
And we enjoyed a wonderful home-cooked lunch with Andrew Stoddard and his wife Beatriz and their baby (best cheesecake with berry sauce I’ve ever had). Andrew is the tech magician behind Leapchats, the start-up App where I occasionally do chats on travel. It is always a blessing to be able to spend time with people in their homes when we travel.
Our hosts made these great little signs for both our welcome and our departure.
Visiting Colombia was a great way to reboot our 2022 Senior Nomad travels. After three weeks spent in Cartagena, Medellin, and Bogota, we feel like we have a grasp of Colombian culture and can definitely recommend it as a fascinating country to explore.
Thanks for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell
Dear Followers - Over the past nine years I have written well over 200 travel blogs, and I appreciate your support and really enjoy your comments! Each time I post Mailchimp sends you an e-mail with a link. Over the years the cost for this service has gone up to the point that I am going to have to rely on you to check our Facebook Page, our Facebook Group Page, and our Instagram for alerts that a new blog has been posted. You will no longer be notified by e-mail starting October 1, 2022. I will send a reminder. Thank you!