If you live in Seattle, chances are you've never been to the top of the Space Needle. If you live in Paris, The Eiffel Tower might be just a navigation tool. It's easy to put off visiting the places that make the city where you live unique because daily life gets smack dab in the way!
Once we settled in the village of Samois-sur-Seine where our daughter lives, we could have easily skipped going into Paris - even though it was just a 35-minute train ride away! There were grandchildren to look after, meals to prepare, books to read, (Contract Bridge for Michael), and long walks in the nearby forest or along the river. Every day seemed to be pleasantly filled with activities. And, to be honest, as Senior Nomads, we've been to “The City of Light” many times.
But we decided not to give in to inertia! We created a list of interesting places in Paris we wanted to see and also prioritized places closer to Samois, like the artsy village of Barbizon, the medieval marketplace in Milly-la-Foret, the bouldering spots in the Fontainebleau forest, and the notorious Chateau Vaux le Vicomte, the prototype for Versailles built by Louis XIV's arch-rival, Nicolas Fouquet.
And finally, since we had the use of a car, why not add some long weekend trips to the mix? So here are a few highlights from our explorations, both close to home and a little further afield!
PARIS / LOUIS VUITTON FOUNDATION
One afternoon in Paris included a visit to the Louis Vuitton Federation. A colossal modern art showcase designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry that opened in 2014 (no handbags in sight).
The exhibit we saw was Basquiat X Warhol's Four Hands, a vast display of works painted in tandem by the two artists. I admit I knew nothing about Jean-Michel Basquiat or their collaboration in the 80s - so it was interesting and enlightening. A very satisfactory bistro lunch with wine was also involved, so it was my kind of afternoon.
PARIS / LA GALERIE DIOR & SAINTE CHAPELLE
Paris in the pouring rain is still Paris in all its glory. For the first time in weeks, it rained hard, but being Seattlites, not only was it a welcome respite from the heat, it didn't change our plans one bit.
We started our morning at La Galerie Dior - a captivating homage to all things Christian Dior housed in the original mansion where Mr. Dior set about changing fashion forever. This carefully curated exhibit takes you on a journey starting with childhood and early influences through his becoming one of the world's most celebrated designers. The couture collection is magnificent.
But my favorite display was the long circular staircase that takes you past a rainbow of miniature dresses and accessories.
From there, we took in the majestic, 800-year-old stained glass panels in Sainte Chappelle and the nearby flower market. After a wander through the Latin Quarter, we stopped in at Englise Saint-Germain-des-Pres, one of the most colorful Parisian churches and home to many classical music concerts.
The clouds lifted, and the city sparkled in the sunlight, so we let our senses guide us as we explored the narrow streets of the Left Bank. unique shops, intimate galleries, wine bars, and boulangeries were everywhere. What's not to love?
When we are in Paris, I am always on the lookout for a decent order of Steak Frites that isn't overpriced, delivered blood rare in the middle (no matter if you've politely asked for "mi-saignant"), and so tough it stops all conversation while you carefully work through each bite. I am happy to say that at Le Pre Aux Clercs, a picture-perfect Bistro in the 6th Arr. I found my happy place.
PARIS / PROMENADE PLANTÉE
Two couples who follow our travels came to visit us in Samois. It's always fun to connect with fellow travelers, and we enjoyed hosting them in our home. One pair, Janice and Paul also had family in our village! The other couple, Jeanne and Phil were visiting family in the village next to us. We decided to meet up with those two a few days later in Paris.
We both wanted to explore a city walk we read about called the Promenade Plantée a magical, elevated pathway built around a section of abandoned railway near Gare de Lyon. It was a lush oasis from the busy streets below, and well worth discovering the next time you are in Paris.
The starting point is the crossroads at Rue de Lyon and Avenue Daumesnil, with staircases and lifts along the route, perfect for nipping down to check out the Viaduc des Arts: 45 brick archways transformed into artisan showrooms that range from violin-makers to glass blowers, jewelers to furniture and tapestry restorers. Most people down at street level don't even realize the walkway exists just above their heads, and the city panorama across Parisian rooftops can be spectacular.
AMSTERDAM / NETHERLANDS
Our intention was to stay in France, but when friends offered a place to stay and free tickets to the sold-out Vermeer exhibition at the Rijksmuseum, we beelined for Amsterdam.
The show was worth the hype (and the crowds), and we love that city. Amsterdam was the first place we rented an Airbnb as brand-new Senior Nomads ten years ago! We've returned a few times since then, and the food, the canals, the architecture, and the ambiance never lose their charm.
Train fares are rising in Europe, and flying was expensive and a hassle - so we took a FLIX Bus. It was a seven-hour ride, but the bus was comfortable with a loo onboard and a good stretch and coffee break halfway. It might seem like a long journey, but we would have spent that much time getting to Orly, going through security, waiting for a flight, and then slogging into the city at the other end. And the good news is it was just under $200. USD round trip for both of us. It was a fun, affordable couple of days away!
LOIRE VALLEY / FRANCE
We had a delightful 3-night stay in Amboise, in the heart of the Loire Valley. When we take short road trips like this, we usually rent a Private Room in a house on Airbnb. We've done this many times over the past ten years, and it is a great way to save money and connect with local residents. Philippe and his wife Mary were great hosts and gave us our first bottle of local wine.
The cozy studio was perfect. It had a private entrance and parking behind a gate, and there was every amenity you could ask for. And, we had a sweet outdoor space to ourselves. The location was great, too. Just a short, scenic walk across the river to the center of Amboise. Here is the listing
We interspersed Chateau visits with wine tasting and an early morning visit to the freshest of Fresh Markets. I wanted to buy and cook everything on offer - but settled for just-picked artichokes, fragrant strawberries, pastries, and pungent cheese - and, of course, the essential baguette.
We stopped at our first Chateau, Chambord, on the way to Amboise. This Grande Dame is a must-see in the valley. It features a double helix staircase designed by Leonardo da Vinci, and the chimneys and turrets resemble an overcrowded chessboard.
But the most intriguing part of the tour was an exhibit on the role of Chambord during WWII. It became the safe haven for art treasures from the Louvre and other museums, including the Mona Lisa. The French government even told the Germans about the repository and convinced them that Chambord was the safest and most practical place to keep their captured loot - instead of trying to move it out of the country during the war. We learned that the Germans even posted their own guards.
Next, we visited Chateau Clos Luce in Amboise, the imposing red brick mansion where Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years of his life. His imposing home in Amboise was a gift from King Francis I in tribute to his mentor and friend. Seeing the studio where da Vinci created some of his final works was fascinating.
On our last day, we drove an hour to Villandry - a Chateau that is famous for its elaborate gardens. It was spectacular! The residence is partially occupied by the owners who, like many inheritors of estates like this, get a sizable tax break from the government if they open their properties to the public. As we toured the interior, it did seem like family members had just finished tea, and there were fresh flowers in every room and family photos on the piano and in the sitting room.
But the real treasure was in the formal yet colorful and approachable landscape. The kitchen gardens were an exceptional example of color coordination between seasonal plantings - and every plant and flower was basking in the perfect June weather. We finished our visit with a local choral concert by candlelight in a restored 14th-century barn near our Airbnb. Joie de Vivre!
NORMANDY / FRANCE
Our last weekend in France was spent in the tiny village of Dampsmenil in a picture-perfect stone cottage owned by our dear friends Jenny and Graham. They are British and delightfully "posh". They moved to the center of Paris for over thirty years, and this place became a very necessary family retreat. We last stayed here in 2013, at the very start of our Senior Nomads travels, and we were happy to see that very little has changed.
The garden is studded with fruit trees, including a prolific apricot, and flowering vines are draped over everything. The interior is so authentically British "Shabby Chic" that you could almost forget you are in France. There must be 1,000 English books (including dozens of fun cookbooks), Scotch in decanters, heirloom silverware, crockery of all sorts, deep, down-filled armchairs and couches for reading all those books (near a giant fireplace), and a room full of waxed jackets and Wellies - which indicate it could be as wet here are anywhere in the Cotswolds. What a treat.
Despite being a relatively short drive from Paris, the location is 100% rural. There was not a shop or even a boulangerie to spoil the ambiance - just magnificent stone cottages, a medieval chapel, and working farms. We walked over two miles through acres of wheat and canola fields to the nearest "town," where there was a single bakery and a small tabac. It was so relaxing to graze on the delicious food we'd brought, sip chilled wine in the garden, read books printed on paper, and play backgammon that we felt fully rejuvenated and ready for our upcoming travels to the actual United Kingdom.
In the next blog, I'll catch you up on our time in Wrexham, Wales, the Lakes District, and the Yorkshire Dales in the English countryside, and London - one of our favorite cities in the world.
As always, thanks for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell
In July we celebrated ten years of full-time travel as The Senior Nomads! Stay tuned for some exciting upcoming travels.