Last fall, after spending two weeks in Egypt, we were headed to the isolated, tourist-averse country of Turkmenistan. The last of the Stans on our bucket list.
To reach Turkmenistan from Egypt, we could fly through Istanbul or Dubai. Since we’d been to Türkiye several times, we chose Dubai, one of the UAE’s wealthiest Emirates, for our three-day “Egypt Recovery Period.”
If there is a country born from the desert that is the categorical opposite of Egypt, it is the UAE. We went from dirty, dusty, decrepit, and corrupt to shiny, shimmering, and highly sophisticated in just over three hours of flying time.
For every ancient monument in Egypt, there was a stunning, gravity-defying spire of metal and glass in Dubai. And while Egypt's tombs and treasures are thousands of years old and worthy of respect and awe - Dubai has also created some jaw-dropping monoliths in just fifty years! Here are some unusual facts about Dubai courtesy of GQ Magazine that can fill you in better than I can.
Two of the most iconic buildings in Dubai - the ultra-luxury Burj Al Arab Hotel and the dazzling 160-story Burj Khalifa Tower.
And that’s because of the “My big shiny thing is bigger than your big shiny thing!” competition between Middle East countries as well as the rulers of the seven, oil saturated Emirates that make up the UAE - those being Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras Al Khaimah, Sharjah and Umm Al Quwain, Dubai is only second to Abu Dhabi in extreme wealth, but they all try to out-dazzle each other. Perhaps UAE could also stand for “Unchecked Arab Egos”?
Of course, there are still big city headaches like traffic (although we’re talking Teslas instead of tuk-tuks), but the streets were wide and well-paved, and the traffic lights meant something. We also appreciated the cleanliness! We didn’t see a spec of garbage or any graffiti. And since everything is so new, buildings aren’t set to collapse at any moment…unless the sand shifts, I suppose.
We arrived at our hotel - ironically presented as a perfect replica of the “ancient marketplace” that once stood on the site. Of course, Dubai can create - or recreate anything its heart desires due to bottomless royal coffers. So, while it is a beautiful country, like Kim Kardashian is a beautiful woman, there are a lot of things that are not quite real here.
Like our hotel. Al Seef Heritage Inn is part of Hilton’s Curio Collection. It was recommended by friends who loved the location along the bustling Dubai Creek. We arrived at night and found ourselves in a small but attractive dust-colored building that resembled a Bedouin outpost, complete with colorful camel statues out front. We were welcomed with Hibiscus tea and a plate of delicious dates - but it was a little disconcerting because it didn’t feel like we were at an actual hotel.
In fact, once we were checked in, we were escorted back to the circular drive, where our bags were loaded onto a golf cart. Really? As it turned out, this hotel is unique! It is made up of ten two-story buildings - all new, but made to look two hundred years old, spread along the creek.
Our winding drive took us almost a quarter of a mile to the farthest building. Along the way, we passed dozens of interesting shops, kiosks, and small eateries (including a Starbucks) to explore in the morning.
Various shots taken at our hotel, including the bottom left which was a hotel room door. We enjoyed our stay - it was a nice break from all the glass and steel high rises, and the location on the Dubai Creek was nice, and still central to most things in the city.
Our room was small, but pleasant, with plaster walls decorated with old photos of the souk, and rough-hewn furnishings. It seemed like a room in a caravan for wealthy camel traders - only with AC, hotel quality linens and a minibar.
On our first day, we quickly realized that if we wanted to walk all the way to the front desk or the restaurant, we would face a gauntlet of shop owners that wanted me to buy a Pashmina, a stuffed camel, an “antiquity” or a dress sooo badly they were willing to block my path. It almost kept us from leaving our room! But we did go out - and we did eat! The breakfast buffet was excellent, And our last evening dinner of Ramen in the Japanese restaurant in the complex was delicious. And we did find a way to dodge the trinket mafia - call for the golf cart!
Keeping in mind that this was meant to be a few days of relaxation before entering the great unknown of Turkmenistan, we didn’t over-schedule. On our first day, we set up shop in a cafe and caught up on all the communication and details of daily life that nomads must consider.
You can catch a Dubai Creek Ferry just outside our hotel - they will take you across the creek to the large gold and spice markets or the city center. Or hop onboard and simply enjoy the scenery.
Eventually, we went in search of a grocery store and a bottle or two of wine. It's not always easy in a Muslim country - but it's doable with persistence. We found a liquor store (using “near me”) and asked our taxi driver to wait while we ran inside. It was sort of like entering a speakeasy. No windows and just a single door with a discreet sign indicating what might be inside. I’ll tell you what wasn’t inside - females!
I think every head in the place snapped up when I walked in the door. We chose our wine and the owner rushed us to the head of the line in front of at least ten men to expedite our purchase. Apparently, it was for my “benefit” as women have priority, but really, it was to get me out heck out of there!
That night, we splurged on a tourist Dinner Cruise. Not the sort of thing we usually do, but it seemed like a nice way to see this spectacular, sky-scraping city by night. The drive from the hotel to the marina was the best part. We needed to pick up other guests at three different hotels, and that took us over and under expansive freeways that gave us views of the city from several angles and some great car sightings. Lamborghinis! Ferraris, Bugattis! Maseratis! And some we didn’t even recognize.
The cruise took us under the gargantuan Ferris wheel with it’s ever changing LED light patterns, and past many mega-yachts. The food wasn’t bad, and there was live entertainment, a DJ and a fully stocked bar. All those adult beverages contributed to some pretty enthusiastic dancing as the evening progressed!
There is a lot to do in Dubai. And much of it would be great for families. From desert excursions, to incredible beaches and the Atlantis resort, to the Dubai Miracle Garden, where millions of flowers live their lives as things like airplanes and castles, art walks, and dozens of museums. And of course the over-the-top malls. Here are ten places worth visiting.
On our last day we took an all-day city tour through Airbnb Experiences. The tour included time in the eye-popping Dubai Mall, with over 1,200 shops and a three-story Aquarium filled with 33,000 sea creatures! (It’s rival, the Emirati Mall houses a massive indoor ski-slope!) We saw The Frame, but didn’t go up to the top, although our guide said is the best of the options to get a birds-eye view of the city, and the fantastic Museum of the Future - our favorite structure.
Maybe Michael thought the sign read “go in the water and look for …” things that could harm you!
We drove onto Palm Island, the frond-shaped man made enclave of of mega-million dollar mansions that can be seen from outer space, took a short boat ride down the creek, and finally dodged the sellers in the Spice and Gold Souks. And we left Dubai with only one souvenir - a plush camel for our 18 month old grandson that plays a very annoying little ditty when you press it’s tummy. Of course, if I’d been in the market for a car, here are the ten most expensive models available in Dubai!
I’m glad we spent a few days in this glittering Oasis. Our next stops include Turkmenistan, Oman, and India - a cultural trifecta! See you in Ashgabat!
Thanks for following along,
Debbie and Michael Campbell
The Senior Nomads