What does Azerbijan have to do with Spanish Football?

My first blog post as the Senior Nomad Sports Reporter
Last year I attended a dozen soccer matches in Europe. After each match, I put together an email recapping my outing along with some photos and sent it to our sons Alistair and Christopher plus a handful of friends who are international football fans. This year Debbie and I decided that instead of sending emails, I would post my stories in the blog so all of our stories and photos in would be in one place.

If you are interested, feel free to read my sports posts when they appear. You'll see I don't so write so much about what happened during the match, but rather about the "outing". Getting to and from the stadium, buying a ticket, stories about who I met along the way and cultural observations.

So here we go....

Atletico Madrid - Among the best teams in the world
We've been back in Europe for three weeks, but we were never in the right city at the right time to catch a match until yesterday here in Madrid where I was able to watch Atletico Madrid vs Malaga. As you recall, Atletico won La Liga last year and played in the final for the Champion's League but lost 2-1 to Real Madrid. Going into this weekend, Atletico was in 4th place with Malaga 2 points behind in 6th. So on paper it looked like a great match-up with Malaga having a chance to overtake Atletico with a win.

Note - In the short time we've been here, I've gotten the impression that Real Madrid is much more popular but they were playing away yesterday.

Getting to the match yesterday (Saturday) for a 4 pm start was super easy. Just a 10 minute walk from our apartment in the center of Madrid to the Metro, then 4 stops and then blending into the stream of thousands and thousands of supporters for a 10 minute walk to Vicente Calderon Stadium.

Vincente Calderone Stadium. Built 1966. Seats 55,000.
On the Metro I made friends with two young women who were headed to the match. They offered to help me find a place to buy a ticket when we got to the stadium. The lines were the shortest I've ever seen since the match was nearly sold-out. Once I got in line the scalpers sniffed fresh meat and one descended for easy-pickings offering me a ticket for just 350 Euros! He didn't want to take no for an answer so he keep pushing and lowering the price until I got to the front of the line. Sorry Mr. Scalper, but two nice guys helped translate for me and I was able to find a good seat from the official box office. As usual, I bought the cheapest ticket available which was 30 Euros or $38. [Good news - the US$ has strengthened about 10% over the last 5 months and so our dollars go farther.] My seat was on the upper- upper level and in the corner. The stadium is steeply raked so even that high up you feel close to the action.

These lovely ladies helped me find the ticket outlet
As soon as I got to my seat, I was reminded that the team is sponsored not by a corporation but by a country which I had forgotten. Since 2012 Atletico Madrid has been sponsored by the oil-rich eastern European country of Azerbijan. I am sure that you have seen their red and white stripped jerseys lots of times with the phrase "Land of Fire - Azerbijan" and maybe even wondered why. I know I did, so when I got home I did some research which I will share with you in a few minutes.

Up until match starts sign on field for promoting Azerbijan
By the time the match got underway the place was packed. There must have been 50,000 Atletico supporters. Less than 1,000 dedicated Malaga supporters were tucked up in a corner on the 300 level opposite me.

Full house. No Beer. Smoking welcomed.
Atletico got on the board in the 12th minute with a corner kick and then added another score in the 42nd minute so at the half, it was 2-0. Malaga was looking overwhelmed, but in the second half, Malaga got on the board in the 63rd minute. Unfortunately they earned a red card on the 72nd which set up a 3rd goal for Atletico and thus an easy victory. When the match ended Atletico was the winner 3-1 and collected the 3 points needed to move into 3rd place behind Real Madrid and Barcelona.

The atmosphere was good. The supporters keep up a solid effort throughout the match and the two guys in the row right behind me provided Spanish play-by-play and color commentary throughout the match. Fun outing. Stopped for a beer near the stadium on the way out to let the crowds disperse in the Metro station and made it home without incident. Thank God for the Google Map app on our phones which are tied into the public transportation system in every city, so getting from A to B has become easy even for a Senior Nomad.

Okay. Azerbijan....

Azerbijan located north of Iran on Caspian Sea
I thought I knew where it was and I was pretty much right but my knowledge of the country was very limited. I turned to Wikipedia and the World Fact Book when I got home and found that Azerbijan is a country that reflects Putin's dream for Russia. Controlled media. Limited freedom of speech. Lots of oil revenues. The President of Azerbijan passed along the presidency to his son upon his death in 2003. Then the  parliament provided a bonus for the new President and eliminated term limits so he can become President for life. Another benefit of being President is that you get to appoint the Prime Minister and Vice-Prime Minister. When the new President ran the last time he got 84% of the vote!

So many are asking why Atletico Madrid could enter into a sponsorship agreement with such a country but apparently for $15M per year, Atletico is happy with the deal.

Powerful image from "Reporters without Borders" website
In addition to the image that I found on the "Reports without Borders" website here are two comments about Azerbijan.
  • Campaigners accuse the former Soviet state of suppressing opposition, restricting freedom of protest and religion and forcibly evicting thousands of families to make way for construction projects.
  • Azerbijan is ranked 160th out of 180 countries in the press freedom index and its president, Ilham Aliyev, is a predator of press freedom who has eliminated almost all pluralism in his country.
So, there you have it. Spanish 1st Division Football wrapped-up in geo-politics and money.

Getting to the match was easy.  I didn't buy the 350 Euro ticket so think about how much money I saved. Great Seat. Good match. Fun first outing of the 2014-15 Season. I am hoping to see Seville play in a Europa League match when we are there in two weeks.

Stay tuned. Until next time...

Michael

Where Oh Where are The Senior Nomads?


After three months at home and more recently, two weeks in France, we are basking in Spain's Basque region in the charming city of Bilbao! 
The view from our balcony in Bilbao, Spain.
I am not sure what kept me from posting after we arrived in Seattle at the end of July. We were home for several special occasions including the wedding of our son Christopher to his lovely bride Jamie, and several other important celebrations, but I thought perhaps our day-to-day life "back home" might not be that interesting. Nor was I sure it was "Nomadic" (boy did I have that wrong).

Chris and Jamie's wedding with big brother Alistair officiating
Our four children Alistair, Chris, Kelly and Mary!
We agreed with our renters to continue the lease of our Queen Anne townhouse through next summer so we continued our quest to find spare guest rooms with friends and family - and of course, some great local airbnb options.

After flying over what truly has to be most spectacular city from the air (that would be Seattle) we settled into our home-away-from-home in the Murray-Robinson's guest house on Mercer Island.

Besides Chris's wedding we also celebrated Ryan Eastham and Teddy Picha's weddings. Three long- time family friends celebrating the same special occasion - the marriages of our sons!

In between we spent two weeks in Victoria, British Columbia. I highly recommend more than a Clipper trip and high tea next time you head up north. It's not all stuffed beavers, maple syrup,  Mounties and Ye Olde everything! Stay for a few days and enjoy great street entertainment, good food, lovely seaside walks and some of the best thrift shopping I've found anywhere. We landed a great airbnb just far away enough from the main harbor to feel like we were in a neighborhood:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/844027.

We had a Ye Olde Good Time in Victoria
A great day trip to Sooke Harbor on Vancouver Island
Continuing our airbnb lovefest we made a three day stop on Bainbridge Island for the Picha wedding
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/678513 and then settled in for two weeks on Phinney Ridge. It was it fun to 'live' somewhere else in our own city - and give our poor friends a break.  The apartment was well designed, well decorated and filled with every amenity you could need to be comfortable: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3238295

One of my best days home. Fishing with George Harris at dawn.
We took a quick trip to San Francisco to make the necessary personal appearance, with checkbook in hand, at the French Consulate to renew our French visas. These documents allow us  unrestricted travel throughout Europe for a year so they are worth the paperwork and expense.

While we were there we met with staff at Airbnb HQ to share our story - after all, we stayed in airbnb apartments for at least 300 nights this past year. Maybe we can help them encourage other "seniors" to give this lifestyle a try.
Posing in front of Airbnb's new logo at HQ
Then it was on to Portland,Oregon to see Alistair and Jenny and grand kids Spencer and Lucy. Theirs is a household full of love and laughter. And all that it takes to manage a 7 and 9 year old, hold down two incredible careers, and still keep everyone fed, focused and on schedule.

We all hit the road to continue family time at the Campbell Junior's shared home in Black Butte Ranch near Bend. It was a relaxing weekend filled with walks in the woods, puzzles and games, art projects and some solid college football.

Family puzzle time at Black Butte with Jenny and the kids
Time for the Nomads to break camp and head to Sun Valley, Idaho. Thanks again to the Murray-Robinson's for sharing their second home - this one in Elkhorn Village. We had three weeks of sunny days and crisp nights. We arrived just in time for the trees to change color and every day brought new waves of orange, yellow and deep reds against dark green spruce trees and mocha mountains.

The iconic red barn heading into Sun Valley
We also witnessed The Running of the Sheep - the highlight of the valley-wide Sheep Festival. This involved standing along Ketchum's Main Street for quite some time in anticipation of 1,500 sheep who would arrive when they were darn well good and ready. There were other minor distractions disguised as a parade, but really, it was all about sheep blasting and bleating past a brave pastor standing firmly in the intersection holding a crooked staff while attempting to bless these beasts er' they go to winter pastures. 

The big event! 1,500 sheep make their way down main street.
We headed back to Seattle through Baker City, Oregon where we had THE best breakfast in America at the small town classic Inland Cafe. I am going to stand by that without any facts whatever to back it up. Onward for the picturesque drive along the Columbia River Gorge for a quick stop in Portland before  two final weeks on Mercer Island before leaving for Senior Nomads Round II. 

One last top up at the genius bar!
This time we had a lot to accomplish - errands, banking, visits to the storage unit, finding a place to store the car, doctors appointments (including getting prescriptions filled for the next year), shopping for Christmas, hugs, tears, and most importantly looking after Tyler Robinson, our 13 year old Godson for ten days while his parents took a well deserved trip to Florence.

Michael and Kelly at Beethoven Lives Upstairs at Benaroya Hall
Finally, it was time to squeeze our lives back into two suitcases and two backpacks. Our motto has been "If we're still having fun, haven't run out of money, fallen out of love, or fallen over and can't get up" we'll keep traveling and enjoying being Senior Nomads one day at a time.

Here we go again!
As I mentioned at the top we are in Bilbao, Spain as I write this. More on our current whereabouts and future plans in the next post. 

Thanks for reading,

Debbie and Michael Campbell
The Senior Nomads


Senior Nomads - 500 Days on the Road!


On July 7th, 2013 Michael and I left Seattle behind to begin an incredible adventure we call Senior Nomads in Europe.


Departure Round I July 2013
Departure Round II November 2014.
We both stopped working, rented our townhouse for a year, downsized our personal belongings and household goods to a tight fit in a 10' x 15' storage unit, sold the sailboat, sold my car, stashed the other car and stuffed what was left into two large suitcases and a couple of backpacks! Sounds easier than it was at the time - but it feels great now!

Note: Other than good electronics (including Kindles) the only other real indulgence allowed was packing our own pillows. At first it seemed a little silly, but every time we faced sleeping in a different bed (see below) in a new city, after a long day of travel we both agreed those two fluffy friends made all the difference.

Since that auspicious day, we have visited 25 European countries, 48 cities and slept in 45 different  beds (most of them in airbnb apartments) along with the occasional family guest room or hotel.


If you want details, most of our adventures are posted in past blogs, however to summarize this experience so far would be to say we have been completely transformed. We have a better understanding of the world and just what it takes to get by in life and still be comfortable. We have slowed down and enjoyed each day as it comes. And even after 36 years of marriage we really enjoy each others company.

Our credo: "We will keep doing this as long as we haven't run out of money, stopped having fun, fallen out of love, or fallen over and can't get up". So far so good!

Our golden rule: "If you can't eat it, drink it, or experience it, don't buy it." Unless you are willing to exchange something out of your suitcase, of course. Weight restrictions and a firm budget do wonders to curb impulse shopping. It also helps if no one but your travel partner sees you in the same five changes of clothes on a daily basis - bonus points for saying "you look nice today."

After a 3 month layover in the Northwest (details in Where Oh Where are the Senior Nomads? blog) we stuffed our bags to the brim and left for Senior Nomads Round II on November 4th.

500 days later we can say the credo still stands, and we are loving this blessed life as we start Senior Nomads Round II.

As I write this we are in Bilbao, Spain sitting at the kitchen table drinking home squeezed orange juice ('cause we are in Spain and oranges are practically free) in a delightful airbnb apartment: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3860584.

It will be hard to go back to anything but fresh OJ after this.
We arrived here after spending ten days in France catching up with Mary's family and meeting with our friends Boyd and Francoise Browning, who have graciously offered us the use of their home in Compiegne, a lovely city about an hour north of Paris, and their Paris apartment while they travel this winter! We checked out the house and will return with Mary for a long Christmas holiday in mid-December. I might have to break the "no shopping rule" for that.

Mary's family - Coco, Marcel, Mary, Jacques and Gregoire
We spent a week in the Paris apartment as well and I was able to repat a little of their generousity by taking some updated photos. If you ever need a large comfortable apartment in Paris that sleeps 4 with American sensibilities (whatever you think those might be) this is a good choice in an interesting neighborhood:  http://www.vrbo.com/78242 (new pictures coming soon)

The living room in the Browning's Paris apartment.
 You can see the Eiffel Tower in the distance from the kitchen
Our relationship with the Brownings goes back over 35 years. Michael first met Boyd when he brought The Virginia Slims women's tennis tournaments to Seattle. Michael worked with him as his "man on the ground"and this event became one of the first events produced by Campbell Sports. Francoise Durr, Boyd's wife was a top ten tennis player at the time and is in the French Tennis Hall of Fame. She is still good friends with Billie Jean King, Tracey Austin, Martina Navratilova and other tennis greats. It was wonderful to see them again and spend a few days together.

This event was a great start for Campbell Sports
Meanwhile ... back to Spain. Last year we spend two weeks in Barcelona and we both felt we wanted to return to explore this fascinating country further.

Michael getting geared up to take on the Guggenheim
The afternoon spent at the museum makes our top ten
The ancient city of Bilbao has been a great place to start. It sits on the northern coast near the Bay of Biscay. CascoViejo, the area where we are staying, is a maze of narrow streets and alleys leading to the main Plaza de Santiago where the Catholic cathedral dominates the old town. Just like in other European cities there seems to be at least one coffee bar, bakery, greengrocer, fish monger and in this case a jamon (delicious cured ham) shop on every street. Not to mention, the largest indoor market in Europe is three blocks away. Most shops close between 1:30 and 4:00 so hardworking Spaniards can spend time in any one of multiple small bars serving distinctive Basque tapas called Pintxos along with local wine or beer for just a few euros. Life is good here.

The view from our balcony of the cathedral and old town.
Just one of over 50 pintxos bars in our neighborhood
As always, Michael makes a new friend discussing football and politics!
I also noted multiple lingerie shops, children's clothing boutiques and toy shops. Did I mention the wine bars? Catholic churches? Add to that a weird concentration of more twins under the age of four than I have ever seen (ten and counting) and you start to see a strange synergy here in old town. 

As ancient as this city is, it also exudes modernity. The metro is pristine and efficient. The city is filled with stunning architecture that compliments the well preserved traditional buildings.   buildings by Philip Stark, and of course Bilbao is home to the Frank Gehry masterpiece, the Guggenheim Museum www.guggenheim.org/bilbao

We spent several hours at the museum today and it was one of the highlights of our journey. The building itself is beyond a work of art - and the collection of contemporary art inside was, to use a term from the times "mind-blowing". And of course, Koon's giant, pansy covered Puppy was a whimsical counterpoint to the museum's exterior.

Puppy was just one highlight of our Guggenheim visit
Today we are taking a day trip along the coast to San Sebastian. Friday we head to Madrid on a bus for a two week stay. Then on to Seville followed by Granada. That should take us to mid-December and back to Paris for Christmas. Last year we had Chinese food in Lisbon for Thanksgiving. Maybe we can find an American style restaurant in Madrid - or at least some Turkey Tapas. 

We are not sure where we will head in January. Somewhere even warmer would be nice so perhaps Morocco and Tunisia, the Canary Islands and Cyprus, and a revisit of Turkey before heading to central and eastern Europe for the Spring.We bought one way tickets this time so we are free to wander. As long as our pillows hold out!

Thanks for reading and have a wonderful Thanksgiving with friends and family. We all have so much to be thankful for. 

Debbie and Michael Campbell
Senior Nomads




Keep Your Eye on the Baltics





July 11th - July 24th. Three countries in 14 days! That isn't how the Senior Nomads usually experience countries and their capital cities - but we were rolling towards the finish line and couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit this fascinating part of Eastern Europe.


Our destination sits above Poland and across the water from Finland. The Baltic States are made up of three countries: Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. We wanted to visit these three countries to learn how they survived a Russian occupation before WW II, a brutal German occupation during WW II and another terrorizing Russian occupation from 1945 until they all gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.

It was incredible to see the transformation from occupation and oppression to active membership in the European Union and NATO. The countries may be small (their combined population of 6 million + is about the same as Washington) but they are very proud of their heritage and are now fiercely independent. And they love to sing!
This poster visually sums up the power of song and the part  it played in Baltic Independence
I won't go too deep into the politics, but if you have a chance Google "The Singing Revolution" you'll  learn how in part, these countries sang their way to freedom. In August of 1989, approximately two million citizens formed a human chain stretching 600 kilometers starting in Tallinn, snaking through Latvia and ending  in Lithuania. This amazing effort brought the world's attention to their plight as occupied nations. In 1991, after continual (and mostly peaceful) protests, all three countries gained Independence. 

Join us on our journey:

Tallinn, Estonia: This was a grand city featuring a postcard perfect UNESCO Heritage Site old town. It was a merry mix of medieval towers, ramparts, stone walls and narrow alleys, teetering houses and towering churches. But just outside the stone walls there were stark reminders of Soviet occupation. Depressing Communist block apartment buildings and severe gray government offices surrounded imposing squares where massive statues of Soviet leaders once stood (more on that later).

Our view of the lovely old town of Riga.
My new strategy for short stays - if it's on a postcard it's worth a visit!
It was a decent bowl of soup - and there was a 20 minute wait to prove it.
Our apartment was huge! We often stay in places under 400 square feet - so this 700 sq. ft beauty was palatial in comparison. It even had a sauna - an unexpected treat. Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/916482
I found President Clinton in a souvenir shop  presented as a Matryoshka doll. He is in good company! And yes, that is Ms. Lewinsky peeking out of his jacket. I opened him up and found Monica, another lady friend and finally a very small but angry Hillary. I didn't dare open Stalin or Putin!
In our quest to keep costs down, we were always on the lookout for free entertainment - and we scored in Tallinn. We were looking forward to being in Riga, Latvia for the 2014 The World Choir Games during our next stop. As it turned out, two groups, The Linn-Benton Community College Choir (Albany Oregon), and Australia's Gay and Lesbian Choir (Sydney), were both giving free performances as they worked their way to the games. 



Riga, Latvia: We enjoyed a scenic four hour bus trip to Riga. The apartment we chose to call home was very nice. It was small, but since it was owned by an art-director and architect couple it was well designed and decorated with a lovely view towards the city.Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/124679
This was our street - we had a bad feeling about this one!
The apartment building itself was in total disrepair. If we hadn’t already braved some fairly sketchy entryways during our travels, we might have turned right around at the sight of this one! But once you got past the five flights of stairs, a faint waft of urine, the peeling paint and broken windows – hey, it was fine. At this point in the "new order" people can now own their apartments. So often times terrible buildings have lovely homes inside, but there are no funds to renovate the exteriors and common areas.That should right itself in the future. 

Michael at the front door of the building. I will spare you the stairwell.
A stunning Art Nouveau building down the street just waiting for some love.
We were near a tram and bus line so getting in to town was easy. We took a walking tour with an interesting Australian guide who fell in love with Riga twenty years ago as a younger "bloke" and stayed on. His was a good perspective since he wasn’t personally mired in the occupation era. 
Another lovely old town was just a short tram ride away and a church the Soviets turned into a torture museum!
As we continued to learn more about the history of these countries we found it hard to imagine what life was like under such oppressive occupations. We visited the KGB museum in an apartment building that was first the Gestapo’s headquarters and then became home to the KGB when the Soviets arrived. We also took a guided tour of the Occupation Museum. Heavy stuff.
We had some great meals during this last leg. The buildings may be falling down,
but the restaurant scene was on the rise!
On a lighter note – attending several concerts during The 2014 World Choir Games was one of the major highlights of our trip. We could attend free concerts from morning to night as hundreds of choirs competed in over a dozen categories. We had no idea there were over a dozen types of choral music. The games were attended by 460 choirs from 74 countries with a total of 24,000 singers! We even caught the Linn-Benton College Choir again. 

There were choir performances of every size from 74 countries!
Riga is home to one of the largest indoor markets in all of Europe. Every imaginable food stuff is on offer in five restored Zeppelin hangers – each one with a different speciality; Diary, Meat and Poultry, Fish, Produce and a Clothing and Housewares pavilion where you could really feel the Russian influence. There was another half-acre of outdoor stalls with seasonal offerings. I was in heaven for almost an entire afternoon. 

Just one of five massive market halls.
The outdoor stalls were overflowing with seasonal produce.
There were stalls and stalls of clothes just like this! Hard to pass up this leopard number!
Vilnius, Lithuania: Back on the bus for another four hour journey. The train system throughout the Baltic’s hasn’t caught up with the need so bus travel is the most popular transportation choice. We weren't sure what to expect when we booked these two bus trips. Peasants? Crates of chickens? But it turned out the buses were cool. This time we were on a LUX Bus.There was plenty of leg-room, free Wifi, an entertainment system, free espresso drinks and a WC! 
This was our bus to Vilnius. Front row seats, movies, Wifi and free espresso!
Lithuanian Litas. One of only 5 currencies in addition to the Euro we used on our trip.
Our host Alius met us at the station and drove us to his flat. I have to say it was one of my favorites of the entire journey, so I am glad it was our last. It was also in a building that had seen better days, but repairs and renovations were underway so it didn’t feel quite as hopeless as our Riga dwelling. Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/620586

Our apartment was the one with the first balcony.
The view down the street - a lovely bride and groom heading to church during a brief shower.
Once again, the owners work in creative fields. Alius is a film production manager and his wife Alana is an interior designer and together they have created a great space for their airbnb guests. Lots of interesting antiques, tons of books, a lovely balcony and an awesome kitchen. We were steps away from the center of Old Town and smart shopping streets.
Again, the scars of German and Soviet occupation were still visible – but there was a vibrancy to this city that was authentic. Tallinn was a bit touristic and Riga was still covered in Soviet dust, but it felt to us that Vilnius was truly breaking free from the past. Oddly, it is the last of the three to switch it’s currency to the euro. That happens in January and the feeling is it will be smooth sailing. 
There was a lot of construction in Vilnius and most of it was renovation work. I was glad to see new cobblestones being installed instead of paving over them with asphalt.
Of course we took the walking tour and continued our education. Of the three countries, Lithuania lost the most Jews during to the holocaust during World War II. From a thriving population of 70,000 that filled almost half of the city, only 4,000 Jews remain in the entire country. 

On our last day we took a two hour bus trip out of Vilnius to Grutis Park - also known as Stalin World. This private park houses a huge collection of imposing statues and memorabilia from the Soviet era. All three countries had huge monuments dedicated to the glory of the regime and the communist ideal, and each disposed of them after independence in there own way. In Lithuania, a millionaire mushroom magnate was granted permission to purchase statues and other memorabilia destined for the scrap heap. The idea was controversial, but in the end a successful, if not unusual venue was created. It was surreal to wander woodland paths and pass 20 foot statues of Lenin, Stalin Marx and many other USSR "heroes" reposing in the woods instead of staring down on the proletariat in city squares. It was a great end to our adventure - and now we have an enlightened perspective on the Lenin statue in Fremont!
Just another day in the park with comrade Lenin.
Who knows what Stalin has in his hands! 
A tapestry no home should be without!
I know it looks like I stole the Lenin tapistry - but I was wrapped in a scarf and a towel trying to stay dry at our forsaken bus stop!
The people we’ve met in these countries have been so friendly and are very willing to talk about politics past and present. Michael enjoyed some very lengthy and interesting conversations that have truly satisfied his eagerness to learn more about life here. 
Here's Michael teaching a new Russian friend about the "Selfie". In the background is another example of a statue moved to a remote military cemetery outside of Riga.
We've been home for a week enjoying friends family and sunshine. Amazing as it sounds, we are not sure what's next. We liked being Senior Nomads so much that we rented our house through June 2015 so we will continue to be homeless in Seattle (by choice) for another year. We attended an event in Europe we are considering starting in the Pacific Northwest - while on the other hand, we have talked about getting back our on the road for places unknown.

We are here for the next couple of weeks then heading to Canada until the end of the month. We'll be back in Seattle for most of September but after that, we may feel the itch to catch a flight to somewhere. More blogs to come on how it all came to be! Thanks for joining us!


I am happy to be in a QFC. But I don't want to let go of my regional, seasonal, don't buy more than you need sensibilities. Not easy in this land of plenty.
 Happy Summer everyone!

Debbie and Michael Campbell
Senior Nomads 2014











.

Finland - The Land of the Umlaut


July 4th - July 11th. Since Michael and I play a lot of Scrabble I often wonder what the tile make up might be in the various countries we've visited. In Finland it is the rare word that doesn't have  duplicate letters and a healthy sprinkle of umlauts. Google tells me the word with the most umlauts is: kääntääjää (Finnish for translator). So you must get extra tiles with ä, ö and ü along with more j and h tiles or there would be no Bingo for you! More on the hard working umlaut can be found here:
 http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=umlaut

I wouldn't mind some "hardcore" punctuation in our daily correspondence.
As we wind down our year of Senior Nomadic adventures we've picked up the pace with shorter stays in  more cities. We flew from Oslo to spend a week in Helsinki, Finland. As expected, the Oslo airport was not only beautiful, functional and people friendly - we had the smoothest security clearance of the whole trip. When you were done you were asked to take a "smiley" button survey to rate your experience. Take a tip TSA - happy people beget happy people.

There are many places I would like to take this simple one-touch survey .
Riitta, our Helsinki host picked us up at the airport. Always much appreciated - however Riitta's car had a manual transmission and she seemed to know very little about how it operates. It made for a wild and crazy ride especially for Michael sitting in the front seat. It was all he could do not to have her pull over and let him drive! Fortunately we arrived safely and found the apartment to be one of the more interesting of our apartments so far. Here's the link: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2302108
The snow boot scraper, a standard fixture in every entryway wasn't necessary in July.
This interactive sculpture was just around the corner. You could sing into the pipes or tap them to make hundreds of different sounds.
Around the corner the other way from our house - a sunny beach side promenade
You may have seen that airbnb recently changed their logo and updated their interactive experience. We are big, big fans of airbnb as you know. After staying in 29 different apartments in 12 months  (with three more to go) we have only positive things to say about this amazing peer-to-peer community. Without airbnb this trip would not have been possible from a cost standpoint. But that aside, staying in peoples homes all over Europe made this a cultural experience that would not have been so impactful any other way. Here's a link to Thomas Friedman's column about airbnb in lastSunday's International New York Times: http://tinyurl.com/oteovgw Give it a try next time you are on the road!

There wasn't a television in our flat, and normally that wouldn't disappoint us, but we had become World Cup addicts and now we weren't sure how to get our fix. Michael did some quick research on pubs that were showing the match so we headed into the city. It was the Germany v France quarter final and it brought out the many German fans living in Helsinki so every bar was full. Even a venue called The Sports Academy that can accommodate 1,000 people on two floors was standing room only! That's where we squeezed in and it was fun, but my fellow France fans and I were very much lost in the crowd.
Watching the World Cup match with 1,000 of our closest friends!
Our host had an LCD projector set up to watch movies from the Internet on a white wall so we were able to stream the other matches from the local television station website and create our own Sports Pub. That was a good thing since some of the matches went until 2:00 am our time.
Michael setting up the LCD so we could watch the World Cup at home.
Not shown - beer, peanuts and a Backgammon game in progress.
Our Helsinki apartment was in a great location. We were minutes from large open parks, the beach side home of the famous Regatta Cafe (where they pay YOU five cents when you refill your coffee) and we were close to the tram line that beelined to the center of the city.

The delightful Regatta Cafe. Great pastries and coffee and a fire pit for roasting your own sausages.
The free walking tour took us all around the city, which is very walkable indeed. The Russian influence became more apparent in its influence on history, culture, architecture and lifestyle as we went along. Hanna was our guide and she was adorable in her fuzzy reindeer hat and I 'heart' Finland t-shirt. She was very proud of her country and as enthusiastic as any of the young guides we've had.

Our tour guide Hanna pointing out the entire bay behind her freezes solid in winter and you can safely walk on it!
I spent a great day at Helsinki's huge market. During the summer there are dozens of produce stalls outside the year-round market hall. I continued to shop mostly with my eyes, since we can't pack anything else, and we are on short hops now, so buying ingredients for cooking is also limited. I made up for it with a steaming bowl of market-fresh Bouillabaisse for lunch. It was brimming with shrimp, mussels and a Finnish twist of smoked salmon. Delicious!

We've been eating just picked berries for weeks!
From the fish monger to my bowl of Bouillabaisse - it doesn't get any fresher!
The indoor Market Hall in Helsinki
I found a natural food and drug store in the market similar to PCC. In keeping with the "If we can't eat or drink it don't buy it" mantra, I decided dying my hair sort of fell into that category since there wasn't anything left over after the fact. So I dyed my ever longer head of curls Strawberry Blonde. The dye was made from all natural ingredients including coffee, chamomile, ground roots, essences of things I cannot pronounce and a dash of Henna. How bad could it be? I mixed the large packet of powder with boiling water until I had a murky swamp green goo that smelled like a bag of pre-mixed salad gone very bad. And I actually smeared this on my head. The results were not bad - but I would say the color is more satsuma blonde than strawberry. I am counting on it fading before I get home, as well as it being trimmed away when I finally get to Coupe Rokei for a much needed cut. I've only had three haircuts in a year!

There was great vintage shopping in Helsinki - I hoped to find some affordable Marimekko but no such luck.
If fur grew on sustainable trees instead of adorable animals I would wear it head to toe!
We celebrated Senior Nomad Day 365 while in Helsinki! We found a little waterside bistro and started with a champagne toast - but when the glasses arrived and contained a scant 1/4 cup of bubbly for $10 and nothing but expensive and uninteresting choices on the menu, we made our excuses and dashed away to find something more affordable and enjoyable. We ended up at a Sushi Bar - Michael's first ever!

On our last day we took a two mile walk to Seurasaari Island. It was a perfect summer day and a lovely journey. The island has an "living" museum made of collection of salvaged wooden houses, a farm, a windmill and a church with volunteers in period costume showing what life was like in rural Finland during the late 19th century. There was also a nude beach that was tastefully fenced off for privacy. For just 3 euro you could experience the national affinity for the naturist lifestyle. Tempting ... but not today. We found a bench in the sun with a view to the sea and settled in for some reading time and a picnic.

Houses nestled on the nearby coastal islands.

One of the old restored houses on Seurasaari Island.
A peek at the past instead of the nudists.
The next morning we were off to take a Ferry to Tallinn, Estonia. Being one not to waste food, Michael took it for the team and had the leftover spaghetti and an ice cream bar for breakfast on our way out the door!

We are so excited about our last two weeks. We will be in the Baltic states of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania learning more about their recent history and The Signing Revolution! We'll see you there.

The Viking Line ferry from Helsinki was our first travel by sea.

Debbie and Michael,
Senior Nomads